Best solution for Freestyle (A series) engine cooling

250buggys

Well-known member
I am now looking to plumb in my rad and make all the necessary connections for the cooling system on my Freestyle build.

I have read many posts about improving the cooling for the A series engine and adding modifications. I am not going to add a front mounted radiator at this point but I am keen to learn about any other improvements I can make at this stage. I know that some builders have added an expansion tank, re-routed coolant pipes and left the water cooled manifold out of the system etc.

I have added the MG puller fan and elec pusher fan but it is more about the best route for flow of coolant. I was hoping to have a look at some pics but it is difficult to interpret the route of the cooling path.

If anyone has a spare 5 mins would it be possible to jot out a block diagram please of the freestyle cooling path with any retro fitted modifications?

Any help with this will be much appreciated.

Chris :)
 

Mini Mad Max

Active member
Air flow across the back of the bulkhead/in front of the engine is crucial in an A-series engined freestyle with the side mounted rad. You just need to make sure that you have a good current of fresh cool air across there to feed the radiator at all times. This is best achieved with a combination of fans and air scoops/intakes that deliver air on the move and when stationary. An oil cooler is pretty effective on an A-series too.
 

Danny

Administrator
I added a couple of extra rads :D the more water the system hold the less work it has to do to keep it cool :D
 

wagon_1.0

Member
think "hot air rises". - when the thermostat (at the top) gets to temperature, it opens, letting coolant into the radiator, maintaining optimal engine temp
 

Lilspeed

Member
A tip Mr Smart gave me - make sure you have a radiator cap with a return valve, and the radiator overflow is piped into the bottom of a vented container.
Biggest problem I had was loss of coolant through the overflow when it got warm. Now it draws the coolant back in as it cools down. ;)
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
I never cracked the cooling on Mary, I had scoops, I had heater matrixes with fans, I removed the mechanical fans & went electrical, I sucked, I blew, yet still it would boil if pushed, sometimes it would be okay at constant 60mph, but could never reliably go over that for any length of time. Then as soon as you got stopped in traffic it would boil, even with all the fans on. That's why I went FMR, if I wanted to stay true though the only thing I didn't try due to the expense would be to remove the water pump & put an electric one on, I always felt part of the issue was when you came to a stop the pump slowed down so much heat just built up, whereas with an electric it would stay the same speed, I did always wonder whether the water pump in Mary wasn't the best.. Although Steve doesn't really have any issues & his setup is as basic as basic can be with just an added electric fan
 

Danny

Administrator
Phaeton":x7j8vuti said:
I never cracked the cooling on Mary, I had scoops, I had heater matrixes with fans, I removed the mechanical fans & went electrical, I sucked, I blew, yet still it would boil if pushed, sometimes it would be okay at constant 60mph, but could never reliably go over that for any length of time. Then as soon as you got stopped in traffic it would boil, even with all the fans on. That's why I went FMR, if I wanted to stay true though the only thing I didn't try due to the expense would be to remove the water pump & put an electric one on, I always felt part of the issue was when you came to a stop the pump slowed down so much heat just built up, whereas with an electric it would stay the same speed, I did always wonder whether the water pump in Mary wasn't the best.. Although Steve doesn't really have any issues & his setup is as basic as basic can be with just an added electric fan

The mechanical fan works best when you are ragging it and then eleccy fan works best when the buggy comes to a stand still :D
 
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