Got a Freestyle Buggy at last!

Danny

Administrator
yeah mine unscrews but i would have to remove the fuel tank as well... so doesnt really matter
 

wagon

New member
Phaeton":2vx77zxk said:
Painting engines is for girls ask Danny & Max they spend so much time fannying about they never get anything done

lol ;D

I spent ages metal flaking my last engine, then discovered that it only had 19 out of 20 valves :'(
 

250buggys

Well-known member
I am wondering if it is worth replacing wheel bearings while I have the hubs stripped down?

There seems to be no play in them, is it a case of "if it aint broke don't fix it" or do I replace them while I have the chance?

They aren't super expensive to replace but what does everyone else do?
 

250buggys

Well-known member
Phaeton":39ym1lzf said:
Front or back or both?

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Working on the front end at the moment Alan, but yes potentially both. What are your thoughts?
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
If you're building to keep then I'd put in new, if you're building to sell then leave them alone

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Danny

Administrator
Yeah if you can replace with new as it will let you down at some point and reliability is bad enough in the early days

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250buggys

Well-known member
Great thanks for confirming Alan & Danny, will get those wheel bearings replaced & then have piece of mind.
 

250buggys

Well-known member
Just thought I would throw a quick one out there,

I have been consulting the IVA manual when it comes to mounting the seats. To give me extra knee room under the steering wheel I will ditch the seat runners and bolt the seats straight through the floor, I can't see any problem doing this. What I have interpreted from the IVA manual is that I need to use 100 x 100 mm spreader plates which seems reasonable. Here is what the manual states

"b. Fixed Single Seats
A typical single seat fixed directly to the vehicle floor is likely to require
 load spreading plates at least 100 x 100 x 4mm thick.
 spreader plates fitted between the front legs and the inside of the vehicle floor
 spreader plates between the rear leg securing nuts and the underside of the vehicle floor.

OK so I know the size and thickness but I find it strange they have not specified a material. So I could use wood as long as it meets the above criteria.

Just to clarify I am not going to use wood but I wonder why the material has been omitted? I am sure that that mild steel sheet would be best but to keep weight down would alloy be acceptable? I think that this should be clearly stated in the manual.

Got hold of some nice off cuts, these should do nicely.

DSC_1123.JPG
 

ChaosMS

Active member
hmmmm, I would just say that when I took mine for its test recently they were VERY interested in how the seats were mounted but even more so about how the harness's were mounted.

Could you not weld in a cross bar into the frame and then mount to that? I tend to over engineer things quite a lot - but alloy spreader plates, not sure how the inspectors would see that, unless it was a high grade and quite hard? would you also bolt the plate in each corner through the floor?

Rich
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
I've no idea TBH I took all mine for SVA & their seats were never an issue but things move on, have you decided where you're taking it yet? if so consider either ringing them or calling in to discuss it. I know the guys at Nottingham were always happy to give advice, they would rather a kit come in & pass rather than having to fail them, unfortunately not all testers appear to be as helpful
 

250buggys

Well-known member
I was thinking about welding 2 cross members in and will probably do that now, yes 4 plates in each corner per seat underneath but maybe the other side of the floor also? Looking through the IVA manual the seats with harnesses need further strengthening due to the extra loads, I will be using the donor seat belts and bolting these onto the chassis.

Phoning the centre is a good idea instead of going down the wrong route, thanks for the advice.
 

Danny

Administrator
I would have just bought a new steering rack rather then mess about painting it....

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250buggys

Well-known member
Danny":3b7e7quq said:
I would have just bought a new steering rack rather then mess about painting it....

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I agree, lots of time spent removing old paint when I could just order a replacement part. Thing is that I want to use as many parts from the donor car as possible to get my age related plate.
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
They wouldn't know they are pencil pushers they aren't going to get their fingers dirty

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250buggys

Well-known member
Phaeton":1ue7nge9 said:
They wouldn't know they are pencil pushers they aren't going to get their fingers dirty

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They don't check the doner parts during the inspection then I take it?

I guess by then the majority of the paper work is done and the decision is made by looking at the build photos?
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Conversation along lines of what was the donor, advise donor, what parts did you use, advise parts, oh that's okay. I'll be about 4 days doing this simple form & I'll let you know.

TBH I don't know how it's done these days, we used to have to physically take them into Sheffield, then that closed so last one went to Nottingham don't know if that is open now

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Danny

Administrator
250buggys":2a3rozet said:
Danny":2a3rozet said:
I would have just bought a new steering rack rather then mess about painting it....

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I agree, lots of time spent removing old paint when I could just order a replacement part. Thing is that I want to use as many parts from the donor car as possible to get my age related plate.
The donor had a new rack on it before you started ;-)

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Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
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That looks a bit of a steep angle you may want to pull your steering column back a bit & allow the rack to rote in the clamps a little
 
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