Mr Bumble's Rebuild

[Phaeton]

As other people have a build diary/project I was feeling left out  :'( so I thought I would update this one as an ongoing diary of the mods I'm doing.


This is not a HOWTO but the way I have done it. If you are not 100% confident with your abilities then please get professional help, these are brakes you are messing with.

First of all I welded up the box & made a slight mistake so instead of having the hole & pin to stop the main bolt spinning I had to weld a couple of plates on. The clutch M/C holes where in the right place but as I'm using the Fiat reservoir the brake has to be rotated new ones had to be drilled. Once the holes were in the right place I welded bolts through from the back so it's a once spanner job. Finally a coat of paint, which I then had to take back off as I changed my mind from bolting to welding it to the chassis.

Next was to fit the reservoir onto the M/C unfortunately the Mini rubbers were too big & the fluid would have leaked. So I took the original ones off the Fiat & turned them over, but couldn't then get them into the M/C then, so I did it the other way round. Put them into the M/C first & the the reservoir into them & finally just a tie wrap to hold in place.

I then cut off the lugs off the new pedals

Next I drained as much fluid out of both the brake & clutch systems. Then proceeded to remove the pedals & existing M/C's, which looks a bit weird once done.

This is where the hard work really started, I had to remove my heater matrix & virtually all of the wiring including both fuseboxes, it will be basically a full wire once finished.

Then the cutting started

Until I ended up at this

As I said earlier I was going to bolt the box on, but after getting it to position it became clear it would be almost impossible to drill the ones near the steering column. So decided as it was nice day with little wind I would weld so turning the Mig up high, from the picture I got good penetration, I used the 4 bolt holes I drilled & plug welded them as well.

Last job for the day was the weld the clutch lug back onto the pedal, after welding I used Simon's tried & tested method to make sure it was solid & twatted it with a hommer several times.

When I looked at the brake, if I weld the lug straight back onto the pedal the push rod not be level but will be going up at an angle. Can't get a picture to show & as I was already late for a meal I thought I'd put it off until tomorrow.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Just managed to get a bit more done tomight including getting some paint on the welded bits so weather permitting I should have a good run at it tomorrow.

Missed a couple of pictures from last week, how the other side was welded, the welds aren't the prettiest but I think they are sold. I cut a bit too much off the steering support in front of the pedalbox so welded a bit of the angle back on top of itself.

So tonight I went out to tackle the bake pedal, problem I found last Sunday & why I stopped was if I welded the lug staright back onto the pedal the pushrod would be at quite an angle. To get round this there was 2 solutions as I saw it, cut the lug off the pedal that had just been taken out, or pack something between the lug & the existing pedal. I went with the latter, I cut a piece of 30x5mm about 8mm wide, put this on top of the pedal &tacked both ends, I then put the lug on top & tacked that, then with the welder turned up to full I put 3 welds down either side. By the time I'd finished the whole thing glowed red so pretty sure I got penetration missus.

I allowed it quite while to cool & then used the patented Esdebe weld test system & hit it from all angles with a big hammer. It is solid so a coat of paint was applied.

So tomorrows task is to fit pedals, put in clevis pins, check where pedals lie, bend them into the right place as at rest they are currently to far to the left (sat in drivers seat) drill hole for spring, connect existing braided hoses to new M/C's with copper pipe, bleed both systems. At some point I intend to do a complete stripdown, at that point the brake & clutch lines will probably be rerouted down the other side of the buggy. Fit heater unit back, probably have to modify bracket, then will start the task of re-wiring the whole front-end, which basically is a full re-wire.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Got some more done today, after changing the front discs & pads on the daughter Frontera, what a weird setup they have. Anyway I then set about fitting the changed round gear change into the buggy. Yesterday I made a plate to go at the front of the change & welded a plate at 90degrees to go onto the crossmember. First idea was to drill & rivnut it on, but in the end I welded it, not sure it was the right idea as I'm not sure you can now get the unit back out, after I did it I remember suggesting to Dave it ought to be removable, Oh well how ofter will it come out? Next was to make a way of anchoring the rear of the unit, I drilled a couple of pieces of 3x30mm plate & fastened them on, I relieved the sides of the channel so I could weld them up, again a slight mistake I should have gone lower as once wleded the weld fouled the bolt & nut, not so much as it made a difference, but a it more clearance would have been nice.

Couple of before pictures

Couple of finshed pictures.

Hardest part really was getting in to weld, the steering wheel was in the way & from the N/S I was wrong handed.

Yesterday as it rained a far bit I made a fusebox & relay holder to try to tidy up the wiring, not really a lot that can be said the pictures will show what I did. At close of play I had the handbrake/low fluid light, ignition/charge light, side lights in the gauges, multi-connectors fitted to the headlights/front indicators/front to rear cable for rear lights & the Acewell all wired up. If I don't dragged out tomorrow I may get it finished.

This is the fusebox & relay holders in postion

Only concern I have is with the relay holders you can't put 2 relays side by side, they are too close, I made the unit take 10 relays (probably overkill) but I will only be able to use 6 relays anyway.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Another day of sorting the wiring out, trying to make it look at least presentable. Seem to take ages with not a lot to show for it, took a while to prove all the wires out & this time I have made some sort of diagram  ;D But at the end of the day I now have sidelights (including gauges), brake lights, dip & beam including tell-tale on Acewell, ignition warning light, wiring to back of buggy wired up ready for reversing light,just need to come down tunnel & then go back to light that i don't have yet (Stoneleigh purchase me thinks). Also fog light, cigarette lighter in dash, horn & Full beam flash & my 3 speed heater fan.

Realistically the only things that are not wired up are the front driving lights, the wires are under the relay holders just need terminating.

But the big one is the indicators/hazards I removed the hazard switch as it was faulty, if you just caught it the indicators wouldn't work, so the intention is to try to get the hazards to work off just a toggle switch to match the other switches. It can be done by relays, just have to work out how

Anyway a couple of photos of what seemed to take all day with little to show.

Been told I have to take wife out tomorrow so like as not no update tomorrow :'( :'(

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Well I was allowed a bit more time on the buggy today, maybe it was because the wife had a hangover & didn't let on & just wanted me out of the way. So managed to get a just about all the wiring done at the front, I started with the diagram hammered out over a glass of whiskey last night.

Which I then converted into actual wiring of the relays on the holders (note how you can't use adjacent holders) which I mounted back to the frame.

I also wired up the 4 front spotlights (although only 2 fitted currently) so they would only come on with full beam, somewhere along the line one of the relays has gone walkabout, so it's a good job there are only 2 spotlights fitted.

Then came the moment of truth, will it all work? NOPE Epic Fail, well not so much as epic, it did work, the indicators flashed each side when they should with the ignition on, the hazards flashed both sides as they should, only thing was when the hazards were switched on it was back feeding & switching all the ignition circuits on even when the key was removed  :

At this point, I can only assume the hangover had worn off as I was told we were going out, how frustrating got a fault & had to leave it. Anyway I took her for a slap-up, no expenses spared meal at KFC which she paid for  ;D ;D Dropped off a fuel tank/extinguisher at Collie's & made our way back.

Luckily it was still light & whilst driving I had come up with a solution, replace one of the relays with a changeover to isolate the ignition circuit, bit of re-wiring & try again, this time success.

Not too sure I'm happy with the position of the new hazard switch, doesn't look very secure.

This is the front end just about finished off, think I may just pop rivet a couple of P clips to the ali, so I can tie-wrap the cables to them just to stop it moving around & risk disconnection.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Bit of a pictureless update, built up the brakes & then tried to bleed them, NIGHTMARE!!!! could not get the back brakes to hold tight at all. Tried a Sealey vacum bleeder, then a Gunson ezibleed, & finally in desperation I reverted to the tried & tested method, ring Dad! to borrow his right foot. So we did the old style of press down, undo bleed, lift up etc, after about 4 litres of fluid I came to the conclusion something was wrong  : So I started going back through the old posts & found This one which conformed my suspicions I had put the circuits the wrong way round on the master cylinder. Luckily I could change them over where the flexi's met the hards & within 15 minutes of old style bleeding we had brakes all round, pedal is still not as firm as I'd like & there is quite a bit of travel, but when they come on they come on, Thanks Jamie your a star wish I had read the 2nd page first  ;D I then adjusted up the font wheel bearings, there was HUGE amounts of play in them. Spent a bit of time with the fuel sender bending it to try to get a more accurate reading, welded some nuts onto the tabs of the tank so it could be fasten through from the bottom rather than fighting the seat belts to fasten from the top & reconnected the fuel lines.

So up bright & early this morning, but as it was Sunday & I have to work on the front I kicked my heels till 9 to give the neighbours a bit of a peace. Made a bracket to hold some extra cigarette sockets & a USB socket., then a guard to protect the steering rack on the NS & where the pipes now go upwards, refitted the engine covers, which meant all that was left was the centre console & seats.

I want to make a new centre console, but for the time being the old one is going to be tarted up & I may have to buy some chequer plate at Stoneleigh to make a new one. So I modified the old one as the gear selector holes are in a different place & the reverse switch sticks out the side & fitted them back to the centre channel. At this point it was deemed we had to go shopping!!!!!!

On our return I was going to finish the centre console but it struck me that once finished I would have to dismantle it all again if the gear change needed modifying so I couldn't resist it was a single seat thrown in the buggy, didn't bother fastening it in, & it was taken down off the 2 pallets it's been living on for the last 6 months. 1st gear selected nice to get off the drive, 2nd gear came along nicely as well, brakes worked at the end of the road I actually don't remember much else other than it took 45 minutes to prove the other 2 gears, the brakes from high speeds & just how much fun these buggies are  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

When I eventually got back I modified the gear stick, like Danny I was finding it catching my leg, but I have to say I was well impressed with the modifications made, a modified NS Ultimate top engine steady, a NS rear bottom gearbox steady, a new OS front bottom gearbox steady, a reversed selector made it a pleasure to drive, only thing it could do with is a bit higher gearing, it's revving too high at 70mph, but I am used to driving a 6 speed diesel that only just gets about 2k at 75mph.

So things left before Stoneleigh are to finish centre console, put seats back in & this time fasten them in, then drive it to see if I have cured my poor reliability issues, I'm hoping that some of the problems may have stemmed from a faulty ignition switch but that might just be wishful thinking. The only other thing is I want to buy some steel & try to make some side pods for storage but not sure they will be at Stonleigh.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Just really a few pictures of where I am now, it's probably going to stay this way this year now, it really wants a proper stripdown & start again to get rid of the rust & flaking powder coat.

But apart from the side pods which I want to build, unlikely before Stoneleigh, but before the Wales trip, it;s done, may need to treat myself to some new seats. Been eyeing  these up, just down road from me http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Robin-hood-westfi ... 3cac14bd6a

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Well I've now got around 400 miles of trouble free motoring, well apart from the wheel arch incident, I hope I'm not tempting fate!!!

Been using it for the 20 mile commute a few days & it had a horrible squeak, me being a deaf old sod was finding it difficult to pin down. Anyway decided it was on the front, mainly NS, so had a look at the shocks & realised the outer sleeves had been left on. So last night off they came, attacked with angry grinder & put back on, OH so much quieter, so much so I can now hear a squeak on the back that I couldn't hear before ARRRGH.

Whilst I doing the shocks I noticed that the OSF bottom balljoint has quite a bit of play in it & the tie-bar rubbers were shot. So off the P&L Minis today & now £95 lighter, I have poly bushes for the tie-bars, doing both front & back. I also bought a couple of new cones, I have no suspension travel on the back at all, I noticed Bumble was sitting a little lower than the other buggies at Newark, so that's next weeks work. This is one of the problems of throwing a buggy together to beat a dead line, if I had had all the time these would have been sorted before the SVA, but at least this way I can enjoy it on the road.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Interesting afternoon, watched the GP & then went out to the buggy. Borrowed HMalan's cone compressor this morning, what an awesome tool, the cone compressor not Alan  ;D makes life so much easier, but still a struggle to get top arm back in after inserting new cone, it must have been nearly 20mm taller than the one that came out. Also changed the tie-bar bushes to poly ones. Whilst I was there also noticed the bottom arm pin the weird shaped one wasn't sitting in the hole correctly so after much swearing & messing I finally managed to strip the thread. Luckily I have another which when used dropped straight into where it was supposed to go. The front was quite undramatic as well, apart from finding out my front tie-bar bushes were actually bottom arm bushes, no wonder they were so slack. But 5 hours work & she sits 12mm higher & confident there is far less play than before.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

So the Wales trip preparation continues, he now has, new cones on rear, poly bushes all the way round, might need to consider uprated tie bars, as thee 4 that were on were a bit bend, don't know if this is how they were fitted or done by driving. Only thing I need to do suspension wise is tracking.

Since fitting the metal bladed 'hot climate' fan I've not had any overheating problems, but the temperature still rises after a good blast & then you sit at a roundabout etc, so I've fitted a couple of motorbike radiator fans to the outside of the radiator. I was going to up them on a thermostatic switch, but the Mini plumbing doesn't really lend itself to fitting one, so for the time being I've just put them on a switch.

I also like to have the rear arches on the hubs, but as I've put before this causes problems with vibration & the brackets cracking, well hopefully I've sorted this, I've welded a 3mm plate to the bottom of the existing plate & seam welded it all the way round, they seem much much stronger now.

Then finally, for the trip, but also as a standard upgrade I've fitted a helmet box, I got caught out the other week going to work, just went in goggles, woolly hat & normal clothes, but it was absolutely hammering it down on the way home & I got soaked. Since then I've been taking a bag with my waterproof in, but that means carrying it round. This way the helmet & waterproof can stay reasonably secure in the buggy at all times.

 

[Phaeton]

That's quite worrying came to the post & it said

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Oh dear is it that long, well not really a lot to add even now. Been thinking all week what I need to get done and when I got up at 08:30 & it was a fine quite sunny day I thought, yes, let's start ticking things off the list. So made a cup of coffee & sat at the PC to do some work I have to do before I'm free which took 45 minutes or so & guess what. By the time I had finished it was raining, why oh why is it fine during the week when I'm in the office & rains at weekends, it's just not fair.

Finished a couple of little jobs off on the MR2, I have a trackday at the end of the month in it.

I'd taken the seats out a few weeks ago & the fuel tank to see why the fuel gauge wasn't working. When I took out the fuel sender, it's a standard Mini one that I had shortened, the float wasn't attached, the arm was in 2 pieces. So hopefully I have made a better job of it this time. So I put it back in the buggy, connected it up & put some fuel in, it now appears to work again, for how long I don't know. Next I connected the fuel up & tried to start the buggy, took a while to get the fuel through & ended having to jump it off the Skyline but it was soon purring. Then I notice that the fan/alternator belt was very very loose, the bottom bolt on the slide had fallen out, so had to take it off to make it all good again, fairly easy with the panels off. Then I dropped one of the new seats in, didn't fasten it down but I have to say they are a bit 'snug' certainly not going to be moving sideways cornering.

Assuming we have reasonable weather tomorrow intention is to get seats fitted properly, I'll take pictures then.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Bit of an update with a few pictures this time,

Seats fitted

They are to say the least 'tight' well for a FB like me they are.

Then I thought about cooling, since adding the motorcycle fans I haven't had a real problem but thought I'd try yo get some fresh cool air to the rad, so here is the effort.

With the engine running you can feel it sucking air through the vent.

Then the last job today was to add an Anderson connector at the rear to assist in jump starting, so cut the jump leads & put an Anderson in series, then put another one on the buggy direct to the starter motor. Fires up straight away this way when connected to another car. I has me thinking that maybe I need to run a new 'Live' front to rear.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

So the trip to Stoneleigh!

Going down was fine, down the A46 & then along the M69 where he was happy to run at 65-70mph with the temperature around the 90 degrees mark, but I still have niggling doubts in my mind which spoils the driving experience. So whilst there Simon & myself were looking around the radiators, same place as I got the heater matrix from before & came across some alloy radiators for a Montego or Maestro. The guy only £15 for them & as I only had £10 made him an offer which he accepted, so I thought I'd got a bargain.

On the way home I was into a very strong head wind, he was happy still to sit at 65-70mph but the temperature was pushing 95-100 with extra electric fan on. As I say to me it takes some of the fun out of driving if one eye is always on the temperature gauge. So when I got home he was reversed into the garage, jacked up & put onto the ramps.

So here is the radiator

As you can see it appears to be about the right size

So out came the battery & Mr Angrygrinder & suddenly the battery tray disappeared

Made a couple of brackets & clamped them to the frame, but this has now shown the issues to overcome, the top hose outlet will fine, but the bottom one fouls the frame, unless I drop below it.

So I fished out an old K-series Metro I had laying around which has an outlet on the side, which means the bottom can be a lot closer.

So going to have another look tomorrow & decide which radiator I'm going forward with but I suspect I'll be looking for a Metro one.

As for getting the pipes up to the front I think I've decided I'm going underneath & either using flexible pipes inside some box section, or make the box section itself the pipes by converting the square/oblong to round to take the pupes.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Bit more done unfortunately phone pictures not camera pictures. Decided in the end to use the Maestro radiator from Stoneleigh mainly as the Metro one was in very poor shape & I would have had to buy another one. Had to modify the brackets quite heavily with the angry grinder but it now sits there nicely, I've lowered it so the bottom hose will clear the under side of the chassis to allow a straight run to the rear.

The top will have 90 bend on it & then come down & go to the back down the opposite side

I also mounted the 2x motorcycle fans I had on the inside, I did take pictures but can't find them LOL as the outer of the rad is steel I tacked some brackets on for the fans on screwed rods so I can adjust them as close to the radiator as possible.

With a straight connector on the bottom hose it runs nicely down the the underside of the chassis & pops out at the back.

The other side should do the same.

I removed the existing radiator so I can see where I'm going to, eventually the battery will end up here

With the front end back on I don't think it looks too bad, but that will change shortly

Today with it being Sunday I decided to get religious & make my front all holey

Then sprayed a grille up

Then fitted them together

Just now got to devise a way of fixing the pipes, if our friendly welder was a bit closer I have a plan, need to locate somebody near me that can weld me some brackets on to the pipes that can just be screwed to the side of the chassis frame.

I reckon I've lost about 35mm ground clearance, but I'm going from 175/50 to 185/60 tyres so will gain 25mm back and as I don;t go off-road I don't think it's an issue. My only think is I need 8x 32mm 90 bends, 1x 135 bend & around 20x hose clips these are the cheapest I can find, but they are still all expensive http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 1428wt_907 but don't seem to be able to find anyone doing the old style normal rubber ones, it will also mean although I don't really need it I will have to buy straight length for the bottom hose to make it all match 

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Just a few more pics just in case anyone in the future needs inspiration on how not to do it, so it can be done better, one side is done, being Yorkshire I'm trying to get away without buying new Silicone hoses at stupid prices.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Finished the other side last night & managed to make up enough pipes without having to buy any silicone hoses, no pictures sorry but will get some up later.

Think I have an air lock problem which I always thought I would need some form of bleed where it goes into the top of the radiator. Been looking at THESE but they are stupid money, anyone know a different option?

Also need to sort out some form of temperature sensor to switch the fans on/off. I was thinking of putting it in the return pipe

then if the temperature gets too hot as it comes out of the radiator the fan/fans would come on. Wondered about just drilling the pipe & liquid metalling a nut of the right thread to it.

Have been extravagant on one item I've bought a dual fan controller Siyda

But the costs so far have been

Radiator from Stoneleigh £10
2x 32mm Ali pipe @£6 = £12
4x 32mm exhaust clamps @£0.85 £3.40
17x Jubliee clips @£0.85 £14.45!!!!!!!!
Hoses FREE
Fan Controller £35 

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Just another little update

I was concerned of air in the system at the top of the radiator, so today called at a tyre shop & got a Schrader valve off a lorry & with a couple of penny washers put it in the top hose.

I then jacked up the back of the buggy on the expansion bottle, filled it all up again with the schrader open & there was no issues, so not sure if it was the jacking up or the valve that did the trick. You can just see the tube I had on the air valve to make sure all of it came out.

I also played around with a couple of temperature sensors including a new one I bought but couldn't find a nut to fit, so went with an old Mini one. Drilled the pipe which will be coming to the back after the radiator, so if that gets too hot the fans kick in.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Well the idea of the nut on the pipe didn't work, left it over night & it just came straight back off, never had that before but never used it on Aluminium before either. Anyway I used plan B, which was weld the nut onto a piece of steel pipe & fasten thet over the ali pipe with some rubber & sealant between, seems to have done the job.

So put every thing back together & she finally looks like

Then the front bumper is added back.

May have to consider moving the number plate, but we;ll see how it goes, all is good apart from my fan controller, which I appear to have broke, so there is a new one on it's way from the guy who make tem, hopefully that will be here tomorrow. It also stands a little low, but new bigger tyres are going on next week & then may look at either stronger springs or moving the shock  spring mounting out slightly to lift the front, I currently have lots more height at the back than front, as the doughnuts were renewed last year.

Then it's just sorting a place out for the battery.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Bit more done today, moved the battery to it's new home, I was going to buy one of those small gel type batteries, but not sure I'll bother now

The I was concerned that the number plate was sort of defeating the object of having the radiator at the front, so moved it along with the bracket sidewards

The I took him out for a run, OMG!!! what a difference it makes, not only does the engine temperature not get up it's so much quieter, it's amazing how much noise the old fan must make, granted I was running a metal Safari fan, but even so it's such a difference & I still have the intake hole opened up.

I gave it some beans around the bypass & the temperature never came up above 70 on the capillary gauge, I called in a shop & when I came out it had gone up to 80, but 2-3 minutes down the road it was below 70 again. I did have one fan running constantly as it appears I have foobar'd the electronic controller I bought.

All looking very good so far.

Alan...

 

[Phaeton]

Just a little update as I have been busy doing other things,

Taking on-board about possibly touching the shorting I put a length of edge trim so it can't touch. I also have made an effort to cover the positive terminal, this is only temporary as the terminal is a negative & doesn't fit correctly, at Newark show I'll buy a proper one.

He also got some new boots courtesy of Cedric, I was going to go for 185/60x13 but these are 175/70x13 which are 4mm larger in diameter, it also gives me 35mm more ground clearance than when running the 175/50x13 so I am back to the same clearance before the front radiator.  Only had a quick run whilst I set the speedo, it seems smoother, but feels a bit high up.

Alan...