K series engine swap

Leigh1299

Member
Hi all , I’ve had a look in here but can’t find anything about doing the k series engine swap ! I thinking about doing it over the winter but looking for help as to which engine to go with ? Have I missed a link or section on it Danny ?
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Hi Leigh have a read of Bumbles build, not sure how many of the images are there still as Photobucket gobbled a load up, do you know if you are going MGF or MGTF? Bumble was TF with individualised suspension, when @Danny did his he went TF which meant his mounting method was slightly different as the suspension changed & his was fouling the chassis.

Alan..
 

250buggys

Member
To swap the A series subfrane and running gear you need to be or know a professional welder and mechanical engineer.

It is not the case of a DIY butt or fillet weld but a sound modification to the chassis You need to be able to run a contusions bead of weld around a tube, you need to be able to specify the correct diameter of tube and the radius of the bend. Work out the triangulation of the forces and weld in cross members to compensate.

You need to chop the rear off and re fabricate the whole rear end not to mention sort out the fuel injection, tank return and electrical system. Gear change mechanism etc.

Bespoke panels need to be fabricated to make it look half decent. Upgrade the fuse box for the extra circuits.

There are numerous builds on this forum detailing the whole process.

Don't start chopping your chassis up unless you know what you are doing.....
 

Danny

Administrator
Hi Leigh have a read of Bumbles build, not sure how many of the images are there still as Photobucket gobbled a load up, do you know if you are going MGF or MGTF? Bumble was TF with individualised suspension, when @Danny did his he went TF which meant his mounting method was slightly different as the suspension changed & his was fouling the chassis.

Alan..
I just did not want hydrospastic doughnuts
 

Danny

Administrator
To swap the A series subfrane and running gear you need to be or know a professional welder and mechanical engineer.

It is not the case of a DIY butt or fillet weld but a sound modification to the chassis You need to be able to run a contusions bead of weld around a tube, you need to be able to specify the correct diameter of tube and the radius of the bend. Work out the triangulation of the forces and weld in cross members to compensate.

You need to chop the rear off and re fabricate the whole rear end not to mention sort out the fuel injection, tank return and electrical system. Gear change mechanism etc.

Bespoke panels need to be fabricated to make it look half decent. Upgrade the fuse box for the extra circuits.

There are numerous builds on this forum detailing the whole process.

Don't start chopping your chassis up unless you know what you are doing.....

Very true that.... mine is still going strong but I tig welded it all and used the same steel the main chassis was made out of
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Don't start chopping your chassis up unless you know what you are doing.....
I didn't, but still did it, interestingly when I sold Bumble & delivered it to the new owner we noticed that the butterfly mountings were cracking, only noticed as it was on the back of the truck & at eye level. So my welding must have been sufficient that it held & the manufactured part broke.

But Chris is right, be careful what you are doing, but bear in mind the whole Freestyle was not designed by an engineer, never was type approved & when they were originally built they weren't welded by a professional welder. Enjoy the conversion, you certainly will once it's on the road.
 

250buggys

Member
With that amount of extra power you need to be sure the welds are good.

There must be tremendous forces pushing and pulling the chassis when you get the buggy side ways out of a Junction.

Good fairly cheap power upgrade for the fun to be had. I remember when Danny took me out in his one very windy, chilly December day you soon forget about the weather as the fun factor kicks in.

I would do the conversion on mine but with the extra length it wouldn't fit in the garage and would be a shame to store it outside. MGTF's are getting rarer.

Does anyone know what the tube wall thickness is on the Freestyle?
 

Danny

Administrator
With that amount of extra power you need to be sure the welds are good.

There must be tremendous forces pushing and pulling the chassis when you get the buggy side ways out of a Junction.

Good fairly cheap power upgrade for the fun to be had. I remember when Danny took me out in his one very windy, chilly December day you soon forget about the weather as the fun factor kicks in.

I would do the conversion on mine but with the extra length it wouldn't fit in the garage and would be a shame to store it outside. MGTF's are getting rarer.

Does anyone know what the tube wall thickness is on the Freestyle?

I dont think it made it that much longer....

Was that the K series I took you out in or my 1340?
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
The 1340 looked good too, the amount of time and money you must have spent tuning that! :)
So much money for such small gains, the K series more than doubles the power, is reliable (if maintained) starts first time, every time even after being left for months under a cover outside. You do need to get the radiator upfront, or at least some clever way of getting air into it, I always wanted to have 2 side radiators, but never found the suitable ones & too tight to pay for custom ones.

As to size, the back ends up 50mm wider, I added 25mm spacers each side at the front to change from Mini PCD to MGF PCD, it also ended up 100-150mm longer, which along with the extra width added stability at speed.
 

250buggys

Member
Thanks good info Alan :)

I am sure you guys had the behind seats tank, I maxed out my seats for extra leg room so no space for that but followed Justin's design and put an IVA friendly small tank behind the passenger seat which is now long gone and put back the fire extinguisher tank which is approx 2 gallona :)

If I put a K in the back would need a nice new tank :)
 

Danny

Administrator
It was the K, good fun :)

The 1340 looked good too, the amount of time and money you must have spent tuning that! :)

That was the main reason to move to the K series... the 1340 became unreliable as it was always on the brink... The K series has about 30 odd horse power and 5 gears... that extra gear was perfetc for long trips...
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
If I put a K in the back would need a nice new tank :)
Yes & No, the K series did more to the gallon than the A series so distance isn't an issue if your existing setup is enough for you, but you do have to have a return, so as long as you can provide that it shouldn't be in issue, at least to get you running. Not sure if it's still on the forum but Baloo (Andy) took a MG fuel pump & fitted into a fire extinguisher which gave him his return, I'll see if I can find it & post a link.
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member

Not sure that's working as I expected, but it's post 5 of that thread
 

Danny

Administrator
I made my butterfly holders a bit different as I used different mounting points.... still going well :D
 

Leigh1299

Member
Brilliant photos and build . I’m still toying with this idea !!
I’m hoping to get up to stoneleigh kit car show at the end of the month to get some more ideas ! Any one else going ?
 
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