Mary just got mean

[Phaeton]

First attempt at the front Nerf, Bull, SVA Bar, bit more substantial than Esdebe/Simon's. Not sure if it looks right yet, I was scrunched up in the garage taking the photo. If it does then I'll get it powder coated to match the rest of the car.

Just in case anyone wants ideas, I had 2 spare oval front suspension plates. I drilled out the hole to 25mm, used 2 bits of 25mm ID pipe & welded then on, they're about 75mm long. These then bolted back to the chassis with the normal bolts. The front part was made of 25mm OD pipe welded together, this enables the arms to go inside the brackets for easy removal to get to battery etc. I'll drill the brackets & arms in place & put a bolt through each. I was also going to put extra arms down to the bottom suspension mounting but not sure if it needs it.

From front

From side

Alan...

 

[esdebe]

Hummmmm

Not sure if it is just from the photos, but it may meet the needs of the SVA....

1) what is the distance between the two bars, if you can get your fist in there then he can test anything in there... (unless you were planning on putting some grill inbetween)

2) it isn't high enougth to cover the bits mine failed on at the SVA. Head light brackets, edge of front bulk head.

3) the ends of the bars may need to be radiused more, and If you can get your fist between the end and the wheel then he can still test all the calipers etc, which mine failed on the first time round. you may be better off puting in a curve joining the top and bottom together. One thing to watch out for.... when wheels are on full lock and off the ground. (Drving along traks made by tractors etc...) make sure there is clearence between the top of the arch and the bars otherwise you can get stuck..... Test by jacking up the frnt of the car and turning from left to right....



Other than that it looks good and a lot stronger than mine... But I wasn't planning on driving into anything that wouldn't give way anyway.....

 

[Phaeton]

1) what is the distance between the two bars, if you can get your fist in there then he can test anything in there... (unless you were planning on putting some grill inbetween)

It's 4", wasn't planning on Mesh but now might

2) it isn't high enougth to cover the bits mine failed on at the SVA. Head light brackets, edge of front bulk head.

That's not good, might has to turn it over & see what it's like then.

3) the ends of the bars may need to be radiused more, and If you can get your fist between the end and the wheel then he can still test all the calipers etc, which mine failed on the first time round. you may be better off puting in a curve joining the top and bottom together

That was the orginal idea, but couldn't bend the pipe tight enough

One thing to watch out for.... when wheels are on full lock and off the ground. (Drving along traks made by tractors etc...) make sure there is clearence between the top of the arch and the bars otherwise you can get stuck..... Test by jacking up the frnt of the car and turning from left to right....

Will have a look at that tomorrow

Alan...

 

[esdebe]

the top may be OK, I'm just going on the photos, if you turn it over you then need to make sure that with an out-stretched leg you can't come in contact with any thing below the bottom edge or it will still be tested, the SVA man has a special cone thing to check fot the baseline, and nothing below it is tested.

 

[jerry]

Hi,
may sound daft, but if you put a bar 1 meter high around the perimiter of the car, far enough out so its the first thing contactable by the angled cone, then you wont have to worry about ANY exterior projection!!!!!

Jerry

 

[esdebe]

You just need to remember to duck when you get in and out.

 

[Phaeton]

ROFL after 1 bottle of red & several Grants :lol:

 

[Phaeton]

Well Revision 2 has just been realesed to the viewing pubilc. Decided against making it any higher due to all the cutting extra welding involved, may regret that at SVA time but we'll see. It has been lengthened bothe sides & angled slightly back. Wheels don't foul on lock to lock neither do the mudguards when no weight on wheel. Only concern is I'm only running 12x 6 wheels & want to go eventually to 13 x 7 so hopfully there is enough adjustment on my brackets from bullbar to frame. If you clench your fist you can't get it through the gap, but 'er in doors can, so got to hope SVA man has big hands LOL

Rev2

Alan...

 

[iank]

SVA man has an aluminium half sphere on'a'stick which he'll use if it's not obvious by eye.

I'll have a peek in my SVA manual when I get back home (Thurs or Fri night) so see exactly what diameter it is.

 

[hmalan]

Not as techy as most of you so I don't know how to put on links, upload etc but I have a copy of the SVA manual dated March 2004 that I can email if anyone wants a copy.

Alan

 

[esdebe]

you can get a copy of the 2004 draft one from here....
http://fp.topcateng.plus.com/Garage/SVA Section/sva_manual_draft.pdf

It think it is something like 100mm diameter and anything it touches has to be radiused or covered with soft stuff.

 

[esdebe]

Alan, that looks like it will do the job, check the size between the bars with that in the SVA manual, As for changing the wheels for bigger size, I did that too, and I have 13x7s on mine, the offset on the wheel was the same, so the inside edge was in the same place, but the outside edge on full lock was a different issue.

On that point, check the is no rubbing of the wheel on the tierods when on full lock, I had to put spacers on the front wheels to prevent this, but another option is to use jubilie clips under the gaters on the rack (daves sugestion).

I decided on using spaces as I also needed to give some toe out and deflate the front tyres for the SVA to help with self centering (as per sugestion from the SVA man)

Simon

 

[Phaeton]

Alan, that looks like it will do the job, check the size between the bars with that in the SVA manual,

Just checked & section 13 mentions the 100mm diameter sphere, been & measured mine & the gap is 85mm so should be okay.

Alan...