Phaeton Robin Hood 2B4 Discussion Thread

250buggys

Well-known member
Alan. The paint work looks good. I was never sure why RH used to supply those really heavy stainless body work panels?

The original Chapman 7 was alloy, Westfield went fibre glass and RH went stainless... The only steel panels should be in the floor where you want some strength.

What else have you found wrong today or is it better than expected?
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Not found anything today, it started raining about 9am & has not stopped since including some very very heavy showers, so not been able to do anything, I'm off tomorrow but it doesn't look like it's any better, one of the problems of no garage
 

ChaosMS

Active member
Alan, wow you get through some kit cars!! ;D ;D

The Robin Hood looks very clean but the problems sound like a poor build (headlights wired wrong etc) - has it been re-built badly or something as it looks pretty smart on the back of your truck.
 

Phaeton

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Staff member
Not sure, it's a one owner, built well but been stood in a garage since 2016, I'm hoping it's just a relay or a bad earth or something simple.

It might just be the way it works, I assume (always dangerous) that with the lever the furthest away from the driver would be full beam, pull it towards you is dip & then pull it again on a non latching would be flash.

However currently away is dip, middle is full & pulling towards with lights off is flash
 

ChaosMS

Active member
yeah thats wrong :D :D :D - it should be the way you described - sounds like the column switch is wired wrong
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Also forgot to mention that to get the lights on in the first place there is another stalk switch on the column 1st position side lights, 2nd position headlights, that's all well & good, but when you turn the lights off with this switch they stay on until you turn off the ignition ;D ;D & when you turn the steering the horn goes off :D
 

250buggys

Well-known member
ChaosMS":lshxm5kc said:
ha ha awesome wiring!!!

Choc block to get it working is usually temporary then solder and heat shrink for a permanent connection.

Alan you wanted a project to get your teeth into ;D are you thinking upgrade your AA cover or a re wire?

The mirrors are usually mounted on the windscreen pillar for a bit of rigidity and to keep them out board, not often seen them mounted on the bonnet.

Paint work does look good. :)
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
It'll be fine Chris, I'll suss it, depending on how busy work is tomorrow not been in today, I suspect the biscuit tin along with the relays will be finding a new home & replaced with wire from dip beam into fog light switch, wire out of fog switch to fog light job done.

How are you going to deal with Note 4 on your GBS?
 

250buggys

Well-known member
I am sure there was something in that guide I posted on how to get an IVA pass saying non insulated connectors were a no no.

Regarding the lighting, I remember switching all the controls, I don't think he tested any of the switch gear and was just looking for the correct output.

Alan just thinking about your running rich issue, I found mine was doing exactly the same and has a separate screw for tick over mixture which I am in the process of tweaking and then checking the plugs.

Screenshot_2020-08-16-13-28-19.png

Not sure what carb you have?
 

250buggys

Well-known member
Phaeton":495k53mp said:
It'll be fine Chris, I'll suss it, depending on how busy work is tomorrow not been in today, I suspect the biscuit tin along with the relays will be finding a new home & replaced with wire from dip beam into fog light switch, wire out of fog switch to fog light job done.

How are you going to deal with Note 4 on your GBS?

I bought one of these for the buggy, it was about £30. When I was fitting my new fuse box I made I was all for ripping it out to simplify my wiring but it all works and would have been more hassle than it was worth, it doesn't take up any room really. I don't suppose Mr MOT tester would notice if it was there or not?

Is the RH better than the Formula 27 you had last year? I think that had an Alpha engine in it if I remember.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-FOG-LIG ... xyPc5SAjMr
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Yeah there is a bit more room, still not great for the left foot, but the seat is currently fixed but I'm going to put it on runners which means I'll get an extra 3 inches, which will lower my knees. Not sure if I'm keeping it yet, in some way it's great because of its flaws in design, it's like the anti-roll bar, it's far too strong & there's a mod to make tie-bars, which is what I like to do. There's also an easy swap to a Zetec 16v engine, it was only £2200 so a relatively cheap toy I can't lose any value really & can only add, whereas if I had bought that Zero at £6K I'd be looking at it every day it didn't move & thinking about the money tied up. It'll be MOT'd next week & then I'll make a decision, but if I'm selling it will be quick as the season is nearly over, although with the kind of weather we're currently having it'll probably be a heatwave on October.
 

ChaosMS

Active member
Thats the very same fog light control I put in the buggy! - not needed now as Ive moved to the VW light control switch which passes the IVA requirement anyway (wish I had done it sooner)

To be honest it works well Alan - though not sure youll need it as I dont think its part of the MOT test like Chris said
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
TBH I was thinking about it last night, why I'm even trying to sort it out, I'm going to pull it all the relays out later, single wire from the dip beam straight to fog light switch, job done!
 

250buggys

Well-known member
Your right Alan as soon as the August bank holiday is over kit car prices will drop and no market.

The Zetec conversion will be a nice little project as those engines are cheap a decent gearbox will probably cost you more unless the tyre 9 or MT75 in place is OK and hopefully you can use existing prop shaft. You can easily tune it for more power.

If you do decide to swap it I can recommend some engine mounts that will work and a manifold.

It's not worth going fuel injection for the hassle involved.

Bring on the Zetec :)
 

Phaeton

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Staff member
If not fuel injected what do you propose? TBH I like injection as it's so simple, well more complex to start with, but once installed it just works, nothing to check, only slight issue would be everything is opposite side so potentially new exhaust down other side.

Forgot about the mirrors, when it was IVA'd it didn't have a screen, so the builder had to find a new home for them
 

250buggys

Well-known member

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
That's exactly the carb I have currently fitted on the pinto, as said TBH a simple injection system is my preferred choice, which is why I like the Rover K series, rip it out of an MGF, bang it in connect a few wires & off you go. In fact if there was a K series to Type 9 box available, I'd even consider that.

But today's effort has seen the fog wiring relays ripped out & rewired, but without a diagram I was somewhat struggling much Googling didn't help too much in the end they are wired into my side lights my MOT guy won't care as long as they can be switched on.

Next issue is the running issue, it just doesn't run right, just had the strobe light on it & unless I'm doing something wrong it's currently got 40 degrees of advance on it, but where the distributor is I can't turn it anymore to get less than 32 degrees, it has just had the camshaft changed & there's something nigglingly me that it's been put back a tooth out. Need to start searching on how to check.
 
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