Todays Progress

Danny

Administrator
Today I was in the garae nice an early had to change the disks and pads on the front of the buggy, I was getting a a shudder under braking so I figured I would change them.

After a bit of strong language I was able to get the disks off and to be honest there was hardly any wear on them or the pads which is pretty good considering that they are over 4 years old and been all over europe.

I headed for Motorswerve (I still have a trade account with them) and got the pads and discs and got 6meters of water hose.... at allmost £2 a foot I was sweating a lot when handing over my debit card but to be honest it aint that bad.

got back and the front discs and pads fitted easily no probs and then came the part where I try and suss a route for my long length opf water hose which I have now sorted. Down the passenger side underneath the drainpipe and then back up to the engine bay on the floor and through the center tunnel seems to look ok we will see if it works.

All I have left to do now is the head bits and plumb in my new carb and I am hopefull well on my way.

Just a little up date .

Cheers

Danny
 

Danny

Administrator
Nope just hose...

I think the cooling problem is due to not enough water in the system.

Danny
 

toyotacat1

New member
Hi Dan
From my experience all you need to do is fit a four core rad not a special two core they don't make that much difference and a sucky fan from an mg midget i think they are but put a slightly finer mesh over the rad or clean the fins out regularly as they will eventually clog especially if off-roading and that should solve your over heating problem!
I've been through it all thermostat removal (now replaced) heater matrix under the nose ,oil cooler and vents the only thing i've found to work is a sucky fan the problem i have now is the thermostat hardly ever opens and she's running cold most of the time !

Cheers
Lee
 

Danny

Administrator
I have a 4 core rad and a sucky fan.... still cooks on long runs of speeds over 80.

Still thinks its cos of not enough water.

Cheers

Danny
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Anyone know where I can get an elusive 'sucky' fan from nobody seems have them or I least I can't find anyone who has them

Alan...
 

esdebe

New member
You need to try to find a way of cooling the liquid in the pipe before it goes back in, otherwise the volume of liquid won't make a difference if the capacity of the radiator and the ability for the radiator to cool ins't increased, you will just be storing more HOT water in the system, and putting very hot water (un cooled) straight back into the bottom hose will cause the engine to run hotter as Hot water rises quicker than cold water meaning that you don't take as much of the cooled water back from the radiator.

I started to over heat again since my engine rebuld as I removed the polish mini bus heater matrix and fan to replace it with just a heater matrix, this resulted in hot water going back in to the bottom bracket, so I have now put a fan on it, and so far (touch wood) it hasn't got too hot. I have however also ordered some exhaust heat wrap for the maniforld down pipes to try to reduce the overall temperature under the covers.
 

esdebe

New member
Alan I bougth mine from MOSS for about £18 but I'm not sure if I'll keep the sucky fan or not... I'm thinking of removing the fan and going electric, as it will allow the car to heat up quicker, and posibly improve MPG.
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Please bear in mind I have less than 200 miles running time but this is what i have seen this last week.

Went for my first real blast round & got stuck in traffice it was warm & sunny, i have fitted a temperature gauge but in a stupid place so can't really see it when driving. When i got back it had chucked water out at some point it was all over the subframe & on the nearside wheel. Having a look at it it appeared to be from the overflow. So added some water & went back into town, stopped at Tesco's for some money, when i stopped it didn't look like anymore water had come out. However when I came back out of Tesco there was a puddle under the car & water again in the subframe. I went off to the motor factor & bought a new radiator cap 15 psi, added a bit of water & set off home again. When I got home it again appeared that it had thrown some water out, but I wasn't sure if i was overfilling it. I got a plastice bottle & drilled a hole in the top, pushed a pipe all the way to the bottom & then drilled a 2 mm hole in the top as well, I took off the existing overflow pipe & replaced it with the pipe & bottle, refilled the radiator & since then I have had no problems, it does push a little water out but then as it cools it pulls it back into the radiator.

Last night I moved the temperature gauge to the side of the steering coloum so it could be seen. Tonight I have been running round & watching the gauge. It is normally sitting at around 70, if I push it harsh acceleration & holding in lower gears it will creep just above 70. However as soon as I get to a junction or get caught in traffice it starts to rise, it gets to 90 quite quickly. I have tonight added an electric fan on the outside of the radiator which I want to have thermostatically controlled but for the time being it's on permenantly.

This is on an A+ Metro 1275 engine, there is no heater take-off so it is purely rad & block.

Alan...
 

esdebe

New member
with the sucky fan I have no problems at slow speeds and in traffic, I only had issues when doing 70 for more than 8 miles, however blowing air through my heater matrix with an in line blower (from GP motorsports) seems to sort things out. I just need to get a thermostatic switch too, at the moment I have a push button switch so I can turn it on when the car hits 80 degrees (normal operating temperature)

My problem was exaggerated with the heater matric being very close to the exhaust so it gets warmer the more the car revs, however this helps it warm up quicker. I do however notice that if the car gets above 90 degrees my oil pressure drops too much at idle (not good quality oil, but just need to do another 300 miles before I change it as I will have run the engine back in by then after changing the bearings)

The sucky fan does blow air across the entire block at low speeds and while the air has already been heated as it has come through the rad, it is cooler than the air under the covers and helps cool down the entire engine bay.

The inline blowers are very good, and can also be used to extract warm air from places as well as blow cold air in....

http://www.jabscoshop.com/jabsco/jabsco ... itemid1923

If I remove my sucky fan and put an electric one to suck air through the rad from the outside I may be tempted to put another blower in behind the block to blow cool air across the back. Ideally finding a way to use some of the wind generated by driving would be the best way to add cooling but finding the best places for air scoops and the ducting is challenging, so for now I'll stick with the setup that works even if it does mean I lose a little power to the sucky fan and alternator.
 

Steve

New member
I had the same problem, I was going to get a 4 core rad, but as I had some bits off an old Metro lying around, I fitted the electric fan to the out side of the rad. If I'm driving calmly (not that often, but always within the law) the engine is OK, if it starts to get too hot I turn on the electric fan and it cools in no time. Now I know this seems to work I am going to try fitting a stat' so it turns on automatically. Doesn't look that pretty, but cools down really quick. Sounds like a similar thing to what Alan has done.
 
alan i got mine from this guy. his numbers on the site and he will post it to you.

i had to use longer bolts when fitting to the pump and had to make a small spacer to go between the fan and pump drive flange to give the blades clearance of cylinder head.

http://www.welshmg.co.uk/
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Well for the minute I'm happy with my setup, we'll see as the year warms up & the traffic jams get longer. But with the standard fan on blow & the electric fan wired through a thermostat, also added anti-freeze at 50% things seem okay, fingers crossed.

Alan...
 

Danny

Administrator
Well I m trying to think of ways radiators can be securly attached to the buggy any suggestions?

How did you guys do it?

Cheers

Danny
 

Danny

Administrator
Today has been quite productive,

Head is on, tappets are done.... i hope.

carb is on, thermostat is on, we are lookin good. gonna plum in the extra hose tomorrow and then re check tappets...lol and then try and get it to start.

Ay tips advice on setting up the carb? or is it a case of follow the HBOL?

Cheers

Dann
 

Danny

Administrator
Hello,

Tonight I tred to start buggy..... an no joy!!

Not much of a spark so I have replaced the cap and claned the arm.

the carb as fuel going to it..... charging the battery tonight!

Fingers crossed tomorrow.

Danny
 
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