the best way?

when i got my metro based freestyle ( onyx tomcat), it had a ford scorpio rad across the back of it with two elec fans on a toggle switch. the system had an expansion bottle which tapped off from the thermostat housing and did not have a heater take off valve on number 8 valve side of the head.

so, ripped all that poo out and have started from scratch. so far, have adapted the metro engine mount on water pump side of engine so that it could support and locate the bottem of a mini rad. have then had to make my own top braket as the rad is sitting 15mm further away from the pump than it should. have picked up a midget fan today and it appears to be thicker in the bodty than a mini one. this should be ok though as i have the extra 15mm gap which should accomidate this.

my question is, what next??

do i drill out the heater take-off and fit a valve?

do i get a length of hose and go straight from base of rad to pump?

do i .............................

well what is the best surgestion that has worked for you guys?






so many questions. for this i am sorry. :oops:
 

RichardG

New member
Have not got mine on the road yet so can't offer any advice really. We are using a standard 998 engine and planning to run it with the standard mini radiator only and see how it goes. If it runs too hot we will look at adding an electric fan and an extra (heater matrix) rad.
 

toyotacat1

New member
Hi
Use a mini 4 core rad and an mg midget fan (one that sucks air in through the rad and onto the engine) for 1275 engines thats what i'm using aswell as an extra heater matrix and oil cooler but mines was struggling to open the 82 degree thermostat so i'm consiering leaving the oil cooler off when i refit the engine and maybe even the heater matrix as since fitting the sucky fan she's running too coolwhich is'nt always a good thing! but if you do any offroading and use a sucky fan be sure to fit a fairly fine mesh grill over the rad as it sucks everything in and clogs up the cooling fins eventualy! you should'nt have any problems with the standard 998 set up i did'nt.

Hope this helps

Lee
 
engine is 1275 and am using a "super two core" rad from mini sport ( basically a four core rad). the heater take off on the head is currently still filled in with the original casting ( mg metro). do you suggest that i leave it not drilled out and just modify the hose, which comes from rad to pump, so that the heater take off is blanked off?
 

esdebe

New member
I drilled mine, but only so I could use a alloy manifold which was water heated... When I still had cooling issues afterwards I put in a heater matrix from a polish minibus, not sute if it helps or if it just allows more water to be retained by the system which helps...

Currently I'm rebuilding after touching up the paint on mine, so I may try a different heater matrix. I'm also using a sucky fan, and that seems to provide the best cooling.
 

toyotacat1

New member
As simon has done i've drilled the heater take off as i'm also using a water heated manifold! the hose goes from the heater take off through the manifold and back into the hose from the base of the rad! but if using a heater matrix the hose goes to the manifold to the matrix and then to the hose from the rad base if that makes any sense.

hope this helps.

Lee
 

iank

New member
Unless you drive in winter you don't need to connect the water heating for the manifold. It's just there to stop carb icing in cold weather. In fact it causes a (small) power loss to use it, but unless you're racing you probably wouldn't need to care.
 
yes remote rad and fans sounds good but have you seen the shape the back end of mine used to be to house the setup. look at the gallery under dave williams' freestyle. glad to say, looks nothing like this now. all back end is open, mini rad fitted and butchered one of daves sva freindly rear bumper to suit the metro subframe. looks a lot better but think i am going to struggle to mount rear arches, got a set of them off dave as well. will post pictures when it all looks a little neater.
 
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