gear stick 180% trick
- Thread starter CAW
- Start date
we have put the forum in sections so you should be able to see in those sections 
Andy,
Have you got any of it yet? The gear stick & shifter box, tbh if you haven't then we're going to be explaining it till we're blue in the face, sorry bud but you're not going to get it. You need to have it in yer mitts to see what we mean. But a 10 year old could do it so don't worry.
Alan...
Have you got any of it yet? The gear stick & shifter box, tbh if you haven't then we're going to be explaining it till we're blue in the face, sorry bud but you're not going to get it. You need to have it in yer mitts to see what we mean. But a 10 year old could do it so don't worry.
Alan...
Andy honestly it's a piece of piss, you undo four screws, making as note of which way the plate fits, knock out 2 roll pins, remove 2 rods, replace 2 rods opposite way round, replace roll pins & screw plate back on.
Worst thing about it is normally that it has 30 year old grease in there that gets everywhere.
Alan...
Worst thing about it is normally that it has 30 year old grease in there that gets everywhere.
Alan...
Danny you would have to ave turned the bottom plate around 180 degrees instead then to make sure that the reverse gate is on the correct side...
So there are two different tricks
1) Keep the gear change pointing in the direction it was intended: This requires you to remove the plate on the bottom, and knock out the two pins, swap the short and long rods over so the long rod now sticks out of the back and put the plate back on the same way it was when you took it off.
2) Turn the gear change round so that the long rod point to the rear of the car: this then means that the reverse gate is on the wrong side so you need to take the plate off the bottom and turn it round 180 degrees and put it back on.
Depending on the chassis you will find that the mounting place for the gear change will be set up for one method or the other. Most would be set up for option 2 with the mount holes placed near to the foot well end of the center channel. Some people modified this to make mount point further down the center channel.
Most people also brace the gear change using the original steady bolt hole to the handbrake if using option 2. If using option 1 then a small plate is welded or bolted to the box section between the foot well and the centre channel and this is bolted to the place that the original steady would have been.
So there are two different tricks
1) Keep the gear change pointing in the direction it was intended: This requires you to remove the plate on the bottom, and knock out the two pins, swap the short and long rods over so the long rod now sticks out of the back and put the plate back on the same way it was when you took it off.
2) Turn the gear change round so that the long rod point to the rear of the car: this then means that the reverse gate is on the wrong side so you need to take the plate off the bottom and turn it round 180 degrees and put it back on.
Depending on the chassis you will find that the mounting place for the gear change will be set up for one method or the other. Most would be set up for option 2 with the mount holes placed near to the foot well end of the center channel. Some people modified this to make mount point further down the center channel.
Most people also brace the gear change using the original steady bolt hole to the handbrake if using option 2. If using option 1 then a small plate is welded or bolted to the box section between the foot well and the centre channel and this is bolted to the place that the original steady would have been.
Buggybloke
Member
??? now I am really puzzled by this, as I'd like to fit a reverse light switch, but there doesn't seem to be any holes for it to go in... the gear change lever on my Blitz is a standard Mini one, but I'm not sure which of the two methods has been used....