Common problem on bottom arm assembly?

[wurzell]

Had similar problems when I did my Chassis.......
With all the Front Suspension trial fitted the back lower end of the tie bar fouled the lower rail on full "drop", which annoyed me, as I was looking for full, unimpeded suspension travel both up and down...I ended up welding up the original tiebar back mounting holes and moving them slightly (up?), to enable full movement without fouling...Not of much help on your freshly painted Chassis!!
This corrected what I believe is one of the Freestyles design faults...
Later changed from using rubber bush type tiebars to KAD rose jointed ones, which brings the pivot point outwards, and clears the lower "chassis rail" by a much larger margin.
Also, I think you'll find that Group 'A' type tiebars are threaded with a left hand thread one end, so it's just a case of loosening everything off, and starting both end threads at the same point/time to set their overall length...ie; you can easily adjust them to the same size as the standard tiebars, or longer if you wish.

Be very wary of machining the ends or the fixing brackets, thats where all the strength is, you dont want one of these letting go whilst your driving!! Better to modify the actual rod part, but watch for that left hand threaded end if shortening the actual rods, cos their awkward to correct if you make a mistake!! 

 

[Danny]

Max I have those tie bars and yes they were an arse to fit!! in the video you watched they were standard arms and bars

Danny

 

[Mini Mad Max]

Thanks guys, I'll be out this afternoon, i'll see how much i get done.
Only problem with rose jointed tie bars are that they wont last long off roading. I actually found that it's the lock nut that fouls on the cage, so i might get a same size threaded nut, but smaller or move the mounting hole up or out to the edge of the frame.

Had similar problems when I did my Chassis.......
With all the Front Suspension trial fitted the back lower end of the tie bar fouled the lower rail on full "drop", which annoyed me, as I was looking for full, unimpeded suspension travel both up and down...I ended up welding up the original tiebar back mounting holes and moving them slightly (up?), to enable full movement without fouling...Not of much help on your freshly painted Chassis!!
This corrected what I believe is one of the Freestyles design faults...
Later changed from using rubber bush type tiebars to KAD rose jointed ones, which brings the pivot point outwards, and clears the lower "chassis rail" by a much larger margin.
Also, I think you'll find that Group 'A' type tiebars are threaded with a left hand thread one end, so it's just a case of loosening everything off, and starting both end threads at the same point/time to set their overall length...ie; you can easily adjust them to the same size as the standard tiebars, or longer if you wish.

Be very wary of machining the ends or the fixing brackets, thats where all the strength is, you dont want one of these letting go whilst your driving!! Better to modify the actual rod part, but watch for that left hand threaded end if shortening the actual rods, cos their awkward to correct if you make a mistake!! 

That was quite funny when dad spent a while trying to screw t back on whist talking to me, not noticing it wasn't going on so i said it was a left hand thread, made me laugh. What stuff do you do in your buggy, you said you do trialing, is that with 4X4's or like what alan and richard do, like production car trials?

Thanks once again for such a good response, for me this is what this forum is about. ;D
Any more advice is kindly accepted
Max

 

[Angel Boy]

Any more advice is kindly accepted
Max

Don't eat yellow snow.  If you do, follow it up with brown snow to hide the taste  :    :-X

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Ok, I'm board.  I've been at work since 08:00 this morning and I'm not go to be able to leave until about 22:00 this evening.

Back on topic.

Andy