One of the many problems that appeared after I'd put my Frame on the Road for the first time, was associated with the rear tracking adjustment and locking method......Although in principle, and execution it appears to be a suitable and practical design to use, with short steel shaft, bonded rubber bush with standard Mini trackrod end for adjustment of the tracking, in practice I had all sorts of problems with them........
The rubber bush, even when new, flexes and moves around within the "eye". Running my car with maximum ride height, for increased ground clearance and with 14" wheels with tall tyres increases the "leverage" on these locked steering arms, and leads to variations in, and constantly changing rear tracking. Also increased tyre grip gives the trackrod ends and Rubber bush a very hard life, and after a few miles, even gentle road use we had measurable wear and float in the rear tracking. For anyone that questions this, might I suggest jacking their frame up and checking the play and movement ,even after a short period of time. Having used all NEW parts, the slack in the system is quite an eye opener!! :shock:
This also transfers all of this "Road Stress" onto the next weakest link in the chain, the steering arm that bolts to the hub, I had constant problems with the two bolts coming loose, and the steering arms falling off!!
Therefore, first, best modification is to use the Heavy Duty Cooper 'S' steering arms, carefully fitted with preferably uprated bolts, with drilled heads LOCKWIRED ON, and use the standard steel locktabs. This guarantees the increased grip and leverage does not break or cause your steering arms to "fall off"!!
Obviously then, if the tracking is constantly altering from power on to power off, effectively the rear end is steering itself!! Not really what you want in your carefully built pride and joy, basically a minor design fault...
After a bit of thought, I came up with an idea to improve the rear tracking adjustment and locking set up. By doing away with the Standard steel "Threaded eyebolt" parts, and making a solid, adjustable link system, you completely eliminate this flexing problem, and make the rear tracking much easier and quicker to adjust.........
I used a short length of machined steel rod, one end right hand thread, the other end left hand thread, with a nut welded in the centre for an adjuster. Used Left hand threaded Rose Joint one end, sealed up with a rubber protective boot to keep the crap out, suitable spacers for the mounting bolt clearance, with the Standard Mini Track Rod End the other, either short or long type. When its all fitted together, using the original Freestyle subframe plates and bolts, you have a COMPLETELY RIGID Rose jointed, fully adjustable steering arm linkage that totally does away with any flex or movement, no matter what your chosen ride height or tyre choice, yet remains fully operational and adjustable.
THIS SOLVED MY REAR STEERING AND TRACKING WOES INSTANTLY!!
Cant remember exact sizes or part numbers, although I've a record somewhere of everything I used, if anyones interested in doing a similar conversion, I could email some photo's to you, or supply all the parts to do this conversion for £70 including postage.
Although this might seem a little pricey, you only have to do it ONCE, it completely eliminates rear steer and tracking problems, makes tracking adjustment on the car quicker and easier, with no need to "drop" the track rod ends to allow adjustment, and seems to prolong the average life of the Standard Mini Track Rod ends too!!
Well worth the investment.....
Further information, email Jon Way at
[email protected], or telephone 01823 279026 or 07815082465 Mobile.