Type 3 master cylinder - non remote reservoir found!!

[Danny]

Would I need to get a different master cylinder for the clutch if i just use a girling clutch master cylinder?

found this on ebay, do I need to find out if its 3/4 bore?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Clutch-Master...ryZ31348QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers

Danny

 

[esdebe]

That is the same style as mine. It fits fine next to the Fiat resivour, but would need to be angled slightly if you want to try the Ford one I have.

Did you weld your pedal box in? To use the Fiat one (or the ford) you will need to drill new mounting holes in it....



Simon

 

[Danny]

Ah ok NO I havent welded it in yet, probably going to just bolt it in for such occasions as this.

So what does the Bore refer too?

I will try and pop over maybe wednesday? not sure

cheers

Danny

 

[esdebe]

The bore is the size of the cylinder that you comress when you put your foot on the brake.

If the bore is big (3/4) then you don't have to press as far to push more fluid. The bore of the slave cylinder, and the bore / pipe diameter all play a part too.

Without getting to mathmatical, and bringing Pie into it...

The following numbers are for theoretical purpoes they are not the capacity (as far as I know) of the cylinders...

If the capaciy of the MC is 15CL and the capacity of the Slave cyliner is 7.5CL then you only need to move the master half of the distance to move the slave its full distance., this could mena that the pedal movement is on half of its full swing, but then depending on where the lugs are welded, the full swing could be small or big....

Simon

 

[Danny]

Byjove I think I have it sussed!

Thanks again I have emailed so many people asking if there cylinder is 3/4 lol hope someone get back to me!

Cheers Simon

Danny

 

[Phaeton]

Without getting to mathmatical, and bringing Pie into it...

Somebody brought pie, I love pie hope it's meat & potato that's my favorite.

Alan...

 

[esdebe]

Danny note Alan says he used that MC on Lola (Mary) in the Clutch MC post so I wouldn't worry about the bore as it must work with a mini slave

 

[JAMIE B.]

Just to clarify further :

The reservoir I used has the numbers "A985" on it

This may be unique to the 1.0L "fire" panda which has servo assisted brakes, the mounting holes are identical to the mini reservoir so the original mini mounting rubbers may be used.

Hope this helps a bit

Jamie

 

[esdebe]

Well, mine dosent have any numbers on it.... But works, and I'm very happy with it, so thanks for the idea Jamie.

Simon

 

[Danny]

I went to simons today to see if we could get the ford master resevoir to fit and surprisingly it didnt then simon had a brain wave and he noticed that maybe his old resevoir off the Type 4 might fit and low and behold it does perfectly.

Thanks again

Just need to phone dave and organise the braided hose kit ect and I will be laughing

Cheers

Danny

 

[esdebe]

Yup, the type 4 fits, but this is due to your MC being a Metro MC not a mini one, which also has two 10M out ports on it rather and the two different sized ones on the type3.

If i'd know about the metro one when I bought my MC I'd have got one of them....

Simon

 

[JAMIE B.]

Hi guys, is the metro master cylinder a dual or single bore item, just occured to me that using a metro master cylinder if it is single bore then a pressure reducing valve may have to be used to reduce fluid going to the rear wheels. Thats the reason the mini type 3 had 2 sizes of unions to differentiate between front and rear, rear wheels using the smaller bore of the two (mini type 3 does not require a pressure reducing valve).

Regards Jamie

Any piccies of metro m/c with type 4 reservoir on pedal box to see how it looks next to clutch m/c ??

 

[esdebe]

Humm, it is a dual line on but both bores are the same size, however saying the sasme MC came of Dannys buggy before the re-build and he didn't have a Pressure Compensating/ regulating / reducing or bias valve fitted before, and it braked OK and passed the SVA / many MOTs so I guess that due to the weight difference between the buggy and the metro and the weight now at the back this is not required, in the Mini / Metro it was required to prevent the back locking up before the front sending the car sideways but the front locking up before the back doesn't have the same effect.

Simon

 

[funbuggydave]

Don't use a pressure reducing valve to the back circuit of the brakes, you will fail SVA due to insufficient braking force because there is now much greater weight over the back wheels than there was in the mini.
My first car failed for this very reason
Dave

 

[Asbo]

on the subject of brakes.....im having a new dash fabricated from stainless steel....do i have to incorporate that stupid brake switch thingy....coz the mot guy wasny lookin 4 it?

 

[esdebe]

YOU MUST HAVE A LIGHT OF SOME FORM WITH THE CORRECT SYMBOL TO GET THROUGH THE SVA

but after that....

It would be recomended so you can see if the brakes need topping up or you have a leek. You don't need the whole swithch mind, just a buld or LED. I use one of these for showing when my secondary fuel tank is empty.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 5&doy=31m1

Most brake fluid caps have the ability to press the middle to test that the light works, so instead of wiring the switch in you just need to connect one side of the cap to earth, the other side to the negative leg of the LED, and the positive side of the LED to the battery.

Simon

 

[Phaeton]

You don't have to use the Mini switch if you don't want to, you can just get the indicator light with the symbol & either put it on a normal flick switch or get one that goes onto the handbrake if you want to be all modern & flash.

Alan...

 

[esdebe]

You don't need to have any type of switch if you have a filler cap that can be depressed to test it.... But the light should have the correct recognisable symbols on it (this can be done with transfers or tipex or buying the correct light in the first place)