Ben's Blitz 2 Buggy Build Discussion Thread
- Thread starter Mini Mad Max
- Start date
Lilspeed
Member
vexedben":f2ixhsdx said:
I would say having a welder and the ability to weld is going to make your build a LOT easier, and if you're planning on modifying the kit to take a K series lump it's going to be pretty much a necessity.
Arc welding isn't suitable for fabrication/automotive welding, more for industrial structural stuff.
I managed perfectly well restoring old Mini's and fixing all sorts of stuff for a good number of years with a small 150amp 'DIY' MIG welder from SIP, just using the little CO2 bottles - I found these lasted quite well once you work out the minimum amount of gas you need to weld. My mate has a 130amp version which seems to be just as good for all round car welding.
However mine eventually got tired and started playing up, so I decided that I was doing enough welding to justify investing in something better. I bought a larger 180amp SIP Professional MIG and got an account for Argoshield gas and really haven't looked back - soooo much easier to get a nice weld.
So my advice would be - You can get by with something cheap, but you'll make your life easier by spending a bit more if you can . . . . .
Steves2580
New member
An arc welder might be cheaper to buy, but the running cost and duty cycle aren't good!
Arc welding is more difficult to learn than MIG!
The pipe work and brackets that you will be welding on, could be welded by either process.
It's only car bodywork that is too thin to be welded by arc.
Steve
Arc welding is more difficult to learn than MIG!
The pipe work and brackets that you will be welding on, could be welded by either process.
It's only car bodywork that is too thin to be welded by arc.
Steve
You see I'm in a predicament, as I had a Clarke 151 welder but had to sell it to fund the mgf. Arghhh well I'm going to have to keep my eye out for a good secondhand jobby then. Damn I knew this would happen. :/ in the meantime I will have to just sit in the buggy with seats rested on some timber. Lol. Never mind, it will all come good. Might just have to have a massive list of things to do and get someone round to weld it for me as I wouldn't trust chassis modifications to be done by myself.
ChaosMS
Active member
Ben,
I bought a normal hobby mig to start with one that did the flux cored wire (which was crap) but I made sure when I got it that I could upgrade it to use the small gas bottles or a large bottle, and as soon as I could I upgraded it to a full size bottle and kit, so basically careful selection of the MIG would reap benefits in the long run
I have to agree with everyone though you really need a MIG welder... sorry but this hobby (Some would say way of life or addiction ;D ) kind of demands it
Rich
I bought a normal hobby mig to start with one that did the flux cored wire (which was crap) but I made sure when I got it that I could upgrade it to use the small gas bottles or a large bottle, and as soon as I could I upgraded it to a full size bottle and kit, so basically careful selection of the MIG would reap benefits in the long run
I have to agree with everyone though you really need a MIG welder... sorry but this hobby (Some would say way of life or addiction ;D ) kind of demands it
Rich
Ok rich, that's something I may look into in the near future. The plan is to get the chassis adjusted using a local company that specialises in fabrication and then look to get a small welder for doing the small brackets and bits. I completely understand that a welder is a necessity as I am finding out with all the bits and ideas you can come up with. :
Ps what amperage should I look for, generally 3mm
Thanks
Ben
Ps what amperage should I look for, generally 3mm
Thanks
Ben
ChaosMS
Active member
Ben,
For any welding questions you should always ask the welding guru, the one that holdeth the welding cup that brim-meth over with molten pools of knowledge and all that is pure and special twixt metal and arc!!!!!!!
Some say he once failed to strike an arc........................ but we burned them as heretics :
We just call him the Steve!!!
;D Rich
For any welding questions you should always ask the welding guru, the one that holdeth the welding cup that brim-meth over with molten pools of knowledge and all that is pure and special twixt metal and arc!!!!!!!
Some say he once failed to strike an arc........................ but we burned them as heretics
: We just call him the Steve!!!
;D Rich
Steves2580
New member
Ben,
You need to buy a welder that is man enough to do the one off jobs on thicker material, you can always turn it down!! Buy one with low amps and you can't turn it up!!
For 3mm mild steel, your minimum amps would be 130 - 140 depending on welder build quality.
You'll need to make sure that you can get the MGF subframe (with engine/gearbox) to the fabricators too, they'll not be able to work off the sketches with out it
Hope that helps,
Steve.
You need to buy a welder that is man enough to do the one off jobs on thicker material, you can always turn it down!! Buy one with low amps and you can't turn it up!!
For 3mm mild steel, your minimum amps would be 130 - 140 depending on welder build quality.
You'll need to make sure that you can get the MGF subframe (with engine/gearbox) to the fabricators too, they'll not be able to work off the sketches with out it
Hope that helps,
Steve.
Haha yes Steve, the pics were a good basis, and I will show them to the fabricator to give him a rough idea. Might try bob in n Saturday before I go back to uni and then see what's what. Got the car to strip down in a couple of weeks to get rid of the shell to make room for the buggy again
Brn
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Brn
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Bit off topic, but had an interview for a job on Wednesday and managed to get the job. So now I'm at uni and in charge of all the data analysis for an Audi R8 Ultra if everything goes ok at the first test
In buggy terms, this now means I will have money for new parts and for work to get done on it. Going home this weekend to get the MGF stripped down and all the parts taken off it. Then to try get rid of the chassis as I am in need if garage space with the buggy and car in there. On inspection I think the subframe and suspension is going to need a thorough looking over. Nothing too taxing though and I quite enjoy the cleaning up and painting so shouldn't be too much of a task.
I also plan to take the buggy drawings and plans to the local fabricators to see how much it's likely to cost to get it welded up. If its reasonable I will use them, if not then I'm not sure if I'm honest. Might get them to look at mounting the gear change as well however that requires my seats and stuff being mounted which I need to weld some brackets on which I would kind of like to do some fabrication myself even if it means buying a small welder.
That's about it really until Easter when I can crack on some more in between the race tests and race weekends.
Ben
In buggy terms, this now means I will have money for new parts and for work to get done on it. Going home this weekend to get the MGF stripped down and all the parts taken off it. Then to try get rid of the chassis as I am in need if garage space with the buggy and car in there. On inspection I think the subframe and suspension is going to need a thorough looking over. Nothing too taxing though and I quite enjoy the cleaning up and painting so shouldn't be too much of a task.
I also plan to take the buggy drawings and plans to the local fabricators to see how much it's likely to cost to get it welded up. If its reasonable I will use them, if not then I'm not sure if I'm honest. Might get them to look at mounting the gear change as well however that requires my seats and stuff being mounted which I need to weld some brackets on which I would kind of like to do some fabrication myself even if it means buying a small welder.
That's about it really until Easter when I can crack on some more in between the race tests and race weekends.
Ben
Steves2580
New member
Congrads Ben,
Sounds like a job to be jealous of
Good luck and enjoy it ;D
Steve ;D
Sounds like a job to be jealous of
Good luck and enjoy it ;D
Steve ;D
Right well I've just been to see the engineering shop and they said that as long as I do all the graft and measurements and all that, they are happy to weld it all up. If it went into their shop it was going to cost me £200 so I think I will do all the measuring and stuff. Offered to give me the steel for free as its all their scraps.
Ben
Ben
Ben
Ben
Mini Mad Max
Active member
Not too bad! I don't think you'd get a quote for much less unless you knew someone
Max
Max
Steves2580
New member
Bargain!
There's a lot of work there you know!!
Steve ;D
There's a lot of work there you know!!
Steve ;D
Ben,
You don't need the bolts, can you get a good set of moles on there, or rather than buying drills get a set of Urwin extractors, as you turn them they grip tighter into the bolt head & will snap it off.
As to £200 for the welding that's a good price I reckon
Alan...
You don't need the bolts, can you get a good set of moles on there, or rather than buying drills get a set of Urwin extractors, as you turn them they grip tighter into the bolt head & will snap it off.
As to £200 for the welding that's a good price I reckon
Alan...
Steves2580
New member
As Alan say's, you don't need the bolts, Mr Angry Grinder will get them off, just don't cut into the saddle brackets
Make sure your axle stands are under the subframe and not the body, if you are jacking the body to lift the subframe, there will be massive force on the bolts and the subframe will drop when detached.
Be careful, it's not easy to remove the subframe without a ramp or lifting equipment
Get some photo's up, so we know you are attacking it correctly/safely!
Steve ;D
Make sure your axle stands are under the subframe and not the body, if you are jacking the body to lift the subframe, there will be massive force on the bolts and the subframe will drop when detached.
Be careful, it's not easy to remove the subframe without a ramp or lifting equipment
Get some photo's up, so we know you are attacking it correctly/safely!
Steve ;D
Hi guys, it's the bolts that are directly under the anti roll bar that have become rounded as I can't get into it with a socket so I used a spanner. Well after using a snap on spanner against my very cheap spanner, the difference was clear wight the flank drive helping. They still wouldn't budge so it looks like I'm going to have to try grinding the buggers off which will be some time in the future as I'm back at uni now. :/
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