SVA Fail No real surprise

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Well whilst most of you were tucked up in bed this morning, I was out in the snow on my way to the SVA for 8:30. It was a pretty resounding fail, agree with most of them just think 2 were a bit harsh, but will of course be done within the next 6 months.

Lower seatbelt anchorage point requires repositioning
This is the bottom part of the belt which comes back over the lap, the anchorage ir vertical & should be at a better angle so the pull is better.

Various contactable edges under the dash
He wants a cover under the dash to hide all the electrics & switch backs which are less then 2.5mm radius.

Headlamps inoperable & not checked
Headlamps failed half way through test, not sure what the fault is, was thinking it was a fuse, but sidelights work as do headlight flasher so might be switch.

Contactable edges:- side repeaters, headlight brackets, various through hole in fuel filler
Note if you guard off the radiator area with mess & then leave of hole to get to the tank filler make sure the hole is less then 100mm, otherwise it's not worth doing.

Edges on Steering wheel less than 2.5mm
File or round edges to 2.5mm

Unprotected wire to headlights & handbrake
Didn't put grommets in chequer plate as wires were already there, handbrake wire needs sleeving & clipping up

Wiring loom requires clipping in passenger compartment
Wiring is in copex but copex is not fastened.

Floor requires strengthening for brake master cylinder
This is one I don't really agree with but will comply. When the brake pedal is pressed the floor does move slightly, the tester was unhappy with the amount, unfortunately it's his decision but there must be several others out there with exactly the same system that passed. Resolution has to be to put an angle iron or bix section under the car from chassis rail to chassis rail picking up the front of the box that the master cylinder fixes to.

Flat washer required on O/S/F brake caliper bolt
Fit washer

Fuel pipe requires re-routing from exhaust & filter securing
Used the standard Mini steel fuel pipe & it followed the standard route but he maintained it was too close to the exhaust so will have to re-route it, filter was only fastened with 1 tie-wrap, so adding another.

Brake & clutch pipes need protecting at edges of covers in passenger footwell
I had covered the pipes with a metal cover, but as they come over the chassis rail they come out of it, just wants a bit of rubber under the cover so it can't chaff.

Track control arm replacement rod inner bolts not through nylock on nuts
These are the 2 new bolts that go through the subframe to hold the rear tie rods, I took off the standard nuts & replaced them with nylocks, unfortunately they needed to be 3 threads longer.

No locking device at O/S/R lower stabilizing bar
This is the lower arm bolt the wierd shaped one, missed the spring washer

Handbrake cable chaffing exhaust
Was going to make a couple of brackets to hold handbrake off exhaust but ran our of time

N/S/R flexi brake pipe tight on bar
For some reason the NSR flexi is actually touching the tie-bar whereas the OSR has plenty of space, so either I need to undo the flexi, twist it in the caliper slightly so it comes down at a slightly different angle, or I need to get some slightly longer ones. I did post when I bought them from Russ that they were a little short. Maybe the suspension on the OSR is lower than the NSR

Protective sleeve required on steering UJ
It is possible to catch your toe on the UJ when pressing the brake with the old style pedal box, so it needs something round it.

There is another one not on the list, we had a long discussion about the floor line at the rear & he wants to see an extra bar put in so it stops the exhaust being tested
So not going to agree even though this is the fourth buggy taken through with same bumoer & first time it has been an issue. Just going to weld the bar in.


All in all not bad to say I have been ill for the last week with flu & was having to work Sat & Sun in the snow. But now I have 6 months to get it back for a retest, but aiming on less than that as I want to drive to Stoneleigh in 2 months time.

Alan...


 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
First weekend in May

We got MattBlack's through on the day with an hour of tinkering time.

Alan...
 

biddleboy

New member
well done alan i take it the rear disc conversion went through sweet as a nut then so you have allso improved on more hand brake power looking at that then its mainley cosmetic then
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
biddleboy":2u075518 said:
well done alan i take it the rear disc conversion went through sweet as a nut then so you have allso improved on more hand brake power looking at that then its mainley cosmetic then

Handbrake went through at 47% only needs 20% I think to pass it's awesome, it will handbrake turn in the dry

Alan...
 

Angel Boy

New member
At least you know what you need to do to pass.

Interesting on some of the points they have picked up on.  It does make you chuckle on some of the things they want you to "fix".  As both they and you know that once you get that piece of paper, you'll be "un-fixing" them.

Good news for us is this is the type of things that we'll have to look at so thank you  ;D

Andy
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Andy,

All part of the service, I don't mind putting up all my failures as long as you can endure the rare successes as well.  If you want any photos to clarify then just shout, but it will be the weekend before it's light when I'm home.

Alan...
 

jason_l

New member
Congratulations on the fail Alan!  ;D

At least you have another 6 Months now to get her done!

I have put my SVA paperwork in but im no where near finished, Im really worried that i will have a bag of bolts for SVA and they will just turn me away and refuse to test it!  :mad: :eek: :eek:

If it does fail how many times are you allowed to retest???? is there a maximum number or can i just try as many times till it passes?

Jason :p
 

jason_l

New member
Phaeton":hhnmwbt9 said:
Edges on Steering wheel less than 2.5mm
File or round edges to 2.5mm

What do they actually mean by this??? Been looking at this for ages but what edges are they talking about???

Jason :p
 

esdebe

New member
Alan this was your 4th buggy you should have passed first time this time  :p  But I'm sure it will will be road legal very soon Pull your finger out lad. 

I know you were rushing to get it to the SVA, so well done on so few failing items.

Simon
 

nw208

New member
Not a bad result methinks.

I hope that mine has a similar list (or less)

I too am confused with the steering wheel bit, I bought a new mountney one from P&L I hope that passes.
 

collie

New member
This is remarkable Alan, when I saw your buggy last there was still a fair bit of work to be done!
So, when you've finished and got yours through the SVA, you can come and do mine!  :D :p
 

Angel Boy

New member
jason_l":24zl3qgo said:
Phaeton":24zl3qgo said:
Edges on Steering wheel less than 2.5mm
File or round edges to 2.5mm

What do they actually mean by this??? Been looking at this for ages but what edges are they talking about???

Jason :p

nw208":24zl3qgo said:
I too am confused with the steering wheel bit, I bought a new mountney one from P&L I hope that passes.

I'm "guessing" that Alan used a Mountney type steering wheel with a plastic centre part, leather rim and exposed metal spokes.  The spokes of the wheel have square edges (although not sharp) and I don't think they meet the 2.5mm radius, I have read this is inconsistent from centre to centre though.  Some centres have passed Mountney wheels fine, others have failed them on the screws which hold the wheel to the boss having sharp edges others onthe edges themselves.  I have seen in the past folks fabricate a padded cover for the wheel which covers all the spokes/screws up.  You can buy SVA compliant wheel which are the not so nice looking rubber things.  Don't forget, the bigger the steering wheel, the bigger the area of exclusion on the dash area   ;D.

As a rule of thumb if you can touch it and it is hard, it is best to have a rounded edge or a depressable edge on it.  Sticky backed foam is quesationable as it is the view of the examiner to assess it's "permananet-ness".  When I did my Hood the tywrapping of bicycle inner tube/foam piping insulation over things was being questioned due to it's removability.

Alan,
Is my theory on your steering wheel correct?

Andy
 

jason_l

New member
Think i sort of get it now??? From memory i think mine has rounded edges on it, rather than just pressed steel with relatively sharp edges. I might just add some bits of Tight N Fast around the metal spoke parts for extra safeness. Thats of cousre if i get time to do this!!!! Mine doesn't even run yet!!!!  :eek:
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Angel Boy":3lby685m said:
Alan,
Is my theory on your steering wheel correct?

Andy

Yep spot on, last couple I took the actual 'spokes' of the wheel weren't 5mm think so there is no way a radius of 2.5mm could be achieved so trim was added which was okay. But this one is over 5mm but has square edges, I was going to chamfer them but just ran out of time.



Other ones he didn't like were




Still trying to get my head round the extra bar he wants putting on the rear bumper, I think he's wrong might have to phone him. The problem was with the bumper was using his 30 degree cone when touching the underside of the bumper he could touch the exhaust & the sharp edges on the brackets, my fault for mounting it that way. But what I don't see is how a lower bar will help. That lowers the floor line so makes the bracket testable again!! I think I'm better getting some mesh & meshing in the area between the 2 down tubes so he can't test it. Not a good picture as you can't actually see the down tubes



Alan...
 

esdebe

New member
going back a few year to my SVA, when the man sugester the front bumper he said to use 2 bars and mesh between them, so I guess that if you put a second, lower bar you would need to mesh too.

an alternative would be to make the exisiting bar stick further out and be a little lower.

But your idea of mesh between the posts should keep him happy, it will be a bit like the mesh on the old style nurf guard (my car has this and that mesh has started to fall apart.....  So will be looking to do change the mesh for some better mesh....
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Went into B&Q to look for some mesh £25 a sheet 300mmx600mm  :eek: got some chequer plate 2mx1mx2mm £75 a sheet :eek:

Alan...
 

jason_l

New member
See what you mean about the exhaust Alan.

Just taken mine off the trailer after getting the exhaust made up today! Luckily mine has no sharp edges on it and is pretty clean and smooth.

What im planning on doing anyway is riveting a Aluminium composite panel to the two tubes going down on the rear bumper. Going to have it bend down and under the rear as much as possible! :)
 

Angel Boy

New member
jason_l":235vbjz8 said:
What im planning on doing anyway is riveting a Aluminium composite panel to the two tubes going down on the rear bumper. Going to have it bend down and under the rear as much as possible! :)

Ah, a diffuser eh?    ;D

Andy
 
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