what does a freestyle weigh ??
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That's the maximum design weight or gross vehicle weight can never remember which. That's made up along the lines of full fuel tank, all operational fluids, 2x 75Kgs passengers & 20Kgs of luggage.jason_l":2tgmfcsx said:Holy Crap!
mine will be slightly heavier but thats great news
As to your being heavier, I wouldn't have thought it would be a lot, the A-Series is a heavy old lump 150Kgs, I reckon the Starlet might be 25Kgs lighter.
Alan...
iank
New member
I tend to assume 500kg as it makes the power to weight easy to calculate in my poor old head
Golf GTi Mk2 920kg and 112bhp -- power to weight 122 bhp/tonne
Buggy 500kg and, say, 65bhp (from A series) -- power to weight 130 bhp/tonne
If the toyota makes less than 100bhp then I'd be disappointed - so 200bhp/tonne as a guess. Think M-series BMW levels of performance (up to around 80mph) press the pedal gently and hold on
Golf GTi Mk2 920kg and 112bhp -- power to weight 122 bhp/tonne
Buggy 500kg and, say, 65bhp (from A series) -- power to weight 130 bhp/tonne
If the toyota makes less than 100bhp then I'd be disappointed - so 200bhp/tonne as a guess. Think M-series BMW levels of performance (up to around 80mph) press the pedal gently and hold on
iank":2xej0vh0 said:I tend to assume 500kg as it makes the power to weight easy to calculate in my poor old head
Golf GTi Mk2 920kg and 112bhp -- power to weight 122 bhp/tonne
Buggy 500kg and, say, 65bhp (from A series) -- power to weight 130 bhp/tonne
If the toyota makes less than 100bhp then I'd be disappointed - so 200bhp/tonne as a guess. Think M-series BMW levels of performance (up to around 80mph) press the pedal gently and hold on
Starlet engine is 135bhp standard, its getting tunned to about 165-170, looking at about 300 bhp/tonne at this rate
iank
New member
jason_l":1rbt3xli said:iank":1rbt3xli said:I tend to assume 500kg as it makes the power to weight easy to calculate in my poor old head
Golf GTi Mk2 920kg and 112bhp -- power to weight 122 bhp/tonne
Buggy 500kg and, say, 65bhp (from A series) -- power to weight 130 bhp/tonne
If the toyota makes less than 100bhp then I'd be disappointed - so 200bhp/tonne as a guess. Think M-series BMW levels of performance (up to around 80mph) press the pedal gently and hold on
Starlet engine is 135bhp standard, its getting tunned to about 165-170, looking at about 300 bhp/tonne at this rate
Porsche 911 GT3 (996) mk1 1350kg 360bhp -- 267 bhp/tonne
Hold on very very tight
Check this out Ian,
good little chart from one of the starlet forums.....
http://www.ukstarletclub.com/power-to-weight.html
Jason
good little chart from one of the starlet forums.....
http://www.ukstarletclub.com/power-to-weight.html
Jason
iank
New member
jason_l":2uh1myan said:Check this out Ian,
good little chart from one of the starlet forums.....
http://www.ukstarletclub.com/power-to-weight.html
Jason
That's a nice little chart, so if you went bonkers with your engine you could have a better power to weight than a Veyron
;DSuspect you wouldn't live long, but hey it'll sound good down the pub ;D
iank":2yrqicjr said:jason_l":2yrqicjr said:Check this out Ian,
good little chart from one of the starlet forums.....
http://www.ukstarletclub.com/power-to-weight.html
Jason
That's a nice little chart, so if you went bonkers with your engine you could have a better power to weight than a Veyron
Suspect you wouldn't live long, but hey it'll sound good down the pub ;D
Would sound great, for the 5 minutes it runs before i die....................good way to go though!
The guys at ToyotaGT want me to see what i can get out of it, ie go mental with HP. I told them im not going any more than 200!
ive built 1 of these chassies but mines made from 40x40mm and 2.5ml thick gage do you think there will be much diffrance in the weight as i can still pick mine up http://photobucket.com/dave_060
That doesn't look 40x40 but it might just be my old eyes having no reference points to compare, but if you have used 2.5mm wall then it will be quite a bit heavier than a standard, I reckon about 50% heavier as I think standard is only 1.6mm wall.
The way I worked it out & could be completely wrong is:-
Your wall 2.5 divided by standard 1.6 equals 1.56 so yours will be 1.56 heavier. So if a standard is 100Kgs yours will be 156Kgs.
But is assuming that you have actually used 25x25 if however you have used 40x40 then i gets a whole lot more complicated I did find a calculator on the web but not sure if it's right.
25x25x1.6 was 0.001133Kgs per metre
40x40x2.5 was 0.002903Kgs per metre
So from that it's almost 3 times as heavy
Alan...
The way I worked it out & could be completely wrong is:-
Your wall 2.5 divided by standard 1.6 equals 1.56 so yours will be 1.56 heavier. So if a standard is 100Kgs yours will be 156Kgs.
But is assuming that you have actually used 25x25 if however you have used 40x40 then i gets a whole lot more complicated I did find a calculator on the web but not sure if it's right.
25x25x1.6 was 0.001133Kgs per metre
40x40x2.5 was 0.002903Kgs per metre
So from that it's almost 3 times as heavy
Alan...
have you ever heard of a frame braking as 25x25 and 1.6 seems a bit small me brothers just weighted it goin on your weights and we worked it out to 53kg do you think i should chance the steel as ive got the jig so it wont take much to make enother 1 its just i thought a bit chunckyer the better i dont lik things breaking cheers
iank
New member
boger123":1qcyjo48 said:
Not unless hit a tractor, and it was the 50mmx3mm cage that broke there.
25x25x1.6 is pretty much universal around kitcars.
Caterham use it and it can survive this without breaking.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRRfIJD9bMw
(driver just broke his arm because he wasn't wearing arm restraints).
A properly designed spaceframe puts everything in pure compression or tension, so no bending loads. Obviously a real chassis has compromises but bending forces are minimal, but inch tube is well up to the job.
what made me go bigger metal is the picture in crash buggies the white and blue 1 as the frame is completely ripped apart me brothers been sat and working the weights out and mine so far weighs 45kg and if i would of done it in 25x25x1.6 it would be 22kg so for the sake of 23kg i would rather it be safe as i like to give my toys a hard time but i am going to order some 25x25 steel and some cube and buid 1 of each to see which 1 i perfer and 1 more question has any body got any ideas how thick the plate should be on the firewall on the petrol tank has it got to be a certain gage and has it got to be seem welded or can i pop-ribbet it thanks for input
Here are your Golden rules you have to follow
Fuel Tanks for Liquid fuels at Ambient Temperature
3. A Fuel tank and associated equipment must not leak.
4. All fuel related components must be securely mounted.
5. All metal fuel tanks must have an earth path to prevent the build up of static
6. A Fuel Tank must be constructed to withstand the environment, forces and vibration it is likely to be subjected to during normal use.
7. A Fuel Tank must not be fouled by moving parts of the vehicle, or mounted
8. Fuel Tanks must not be positioned near a heat source (similar in installation to that of a type approved vehicle), so that a leak could cause a fire hazard.
9. Fuel Tanks must be positioned so as not to be vulnerable to damage from protruding parts or sharp edges in the event of a front or rear impact.
10. The fuel tank must be positioned so that in the event of a leak the fuel could not accumulate or find a path to the passenger compartment. (if fitted in a compartment there must be a drain which does not exit onto a heat source)
11. A Fuel Tank must not be located in, or form part of the passenger compartment, or other compartment integral with it and the bulkhead that separate the passengers from the fuel tank must be free from holes through which any escaped fuel could travel.
12. The fuel tank must be fitted with a vent (to permit release of a pressure build up) which does not exit on to the exhaust or into the vehicle or be situated at such a height that fuel would be likely to leak when the vehicle is driven.
13. Any fuel filler neck or vent must not allow spilt fuel to be able to fall onto the exhaust system.
14. Fuel tank filling points must not be located in the passenger compartment, luggage compartment or within an engine compartment. (Reprieved until April 2010)
15. A fuel filler cap must positively locate to the filler neck and incorporate an adequate sealing arrangement so that a fuel leak is not possible.
16. The fuel filler cap must either be tethered to the vehicle or be of a lockable type which utilises the ignition key of the vehicle and where the key can only be removed when the cap is locked or an automatically opening and
below the filler cap, it is not acceptable for the fuel cap to be closing, non-removable fuel filler cap (Post 05 / 2003 vehicles only)
Other than those 13 restrictions it's a walk in the park, is it your intention to put the tank in the small area at the back of your frame? I would have thought just an aluminium or steel sheet front, back & top would suffice with no floor, however if you intend to bring wiring etc to the back which you will have to do then you may need to panel in one side as well. My only concern is how you are going to get your handbrake & gear change mechanism into the passenger area with compromising your fuel firewalls.
Alan...
Fuel Tanks for Liquid fuels at Ambient Temperature
3. A Fuel tank and associated equipment must not leak.
4. All fuel related components must be securely mounted.
5. All metal fuel tanks must have an earth path to prevent the build up of static
6. A Fuel Tank must be constructed to withstand the environment, forces and vibration it is likely to be subjected to during normal use.
7. A Fuel Tank must not be fouled by moving parts of the vehicle, or mounted
8. Fuel Tanks must not be positioned near a heat source (similar in installation to that of a type approved vehicle), so that a leak could cause a fire hazard.
9. Fuel Tanks must be positioned so as not to be vulnerable to damage from protruding parts or sharp edges in the event of a front or rear impact.
10. The fuel tank must be positioned so that in the event of a leak the fuel could not accumulate or find a path to the passenger compartment. (if fitted in a compartment there must be a drain which does not exit onto a heat source)
11. A Fuel Tank must not be located in, or form part of the passenger compartment, or other compartment integral with it and the bulkhead that separate the passengers from the fuel tank must be free from holes through which any escaped fuel could travel.
12. The fuel tank must be fitted with a vent (to permit release of a pressure build up) which does not exit on to the exhaust or into the vehicle or be situated at such a height that fuel would be likely to leak when the vehicle is driven.
13. Any fuel filler neck or vent must not allow spilt fuel to be able to fall onto the exhaust system.
14. Fuel tank filling points must not be located in the passenger compartment, luggage compartment or within an engine compartment. (Reprieved until April 2010)
15. A fuel filler cap must positively locate to the filler neck and incorporate an adequate sealing arrangement so that a fuel leak is not possible.
16. The fuel filler cap must either be tethered to the vehicle or be of a lockable type which utilises the ignition key of the vehicle and where the key can only be removed when the cap is locked or an automatically opening and
below the filler cap, it is not acceptable for the fuel cap to be closing, non-removable fuel filler cap (Post 05 / 2003 vehicles only)
Other than those 13 restrictions it's a walk in the park, is it your intention to put the tank in the small area at the back of your frame? I would have thought just an aluminium or steel sheet front, back & top would suffice with no floor, however if you intend to bring wiring etc to the back which you will have to do then you may need to panel in one side as well. My only concern is how you are going to get your handbrake & gear change mechanism into the passenger area with compromising your fuel firewalls.
Alan...