Danny's K Series Conversion Project Discussion Thread

[Danny]

Well I did get a day in the garage... got her started for the first tim this year

https://vimeo.com/159562935

With her started I could see if I had any wter leaks since I replaced the temp sender and also check the oil dipstick for leaks :l

Spent the rest of the day trying fix a brake line leak which is annoying but will be sorted by the end of the week ;-)

I have also planned my center console which will be made out of chequer plate tugged up ;-)

The chequerplate arrived for my boxes today so will be making a mould up to fold the plate around to get the curves... I hope...

Want to get this all done next week before I have 3 weeks in Europe ad I will be cutting it fine again for stoneleigh


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[Phaeton]

Cambelt is pretty straight forward on the K especially when like ours you can get to it, although I guarantee you have welded a bar in just where you shouldn't have done.

Before you start buy one of THESE remove plugs (not strictly necessary but does help later on) loosen alternator & remove belt, remove the plastic cover off the front of the cambelt, then the hardest bit you need to lock the engine up so you can undo the crank bolt, depending on if it's been off before will depend on how tight it is. I have been known to remove starter motor & lock up with a big screwdriver it does help at this point if there are 2 of you. Once it's undone then retighten & rotate the engine to TDC there are marks both on the camshafts & the crank pulley. Once there put in the tool from above, undo the tensioner & pull off the belt. Remove tensioner, remove water pump, replace water pump, replace tensioner, check crank hasn't moved, slide on new belt, take up tension, rotate engine by hand at least twice, if there is resistance go backwards & check your timing, DO NOT force it through (this is why I said remove plugs it's easier to turn) if all is good put it all back together, cross your fingers, close your eyes & start it. Pretty sure there will be a more in depth write up with pictures somewhere on the Interweb

 

[Danny]

Cambelt is pretty straight forward on the K especially when like ours you can get to it, although I guarantee you have welded a bar in just where you shouldn't have done.

Before you start buy one of THESE remove plugs (not strictly necessary but does help later on) loosen alternator & remove belt, remove the plastic cover off the front of the cambelt, then the hardest bit you need to lock the engine up so you can undo the crank bolt, depending on if it's been off before will depend on how tight it is. I have been known to remove starter motor & lock up with a big screwdriver it does help at this point if there are 2 of you. Once it's undone then retighten & rotate the engine to TDC there are marks both on the camshafts & the crank pulley. Once there put in the tool from above, undo the tensioner & pull off the belt. Remove tensioner, remove water pump, replace water pump, replace tensioner, check crank hasn't moved, slide on new belt, take up tension, rotate engine by hand at least twice, if there is resistance go backwards & check your timing, DO NOT force it through (this is why I said remove plugs it's easier to turn) if all is good put it all back together, cross your fingers, close your eyes & start it. Pretty sure there will be a more in depth write up with pictures somewhere on the Interweb

Thanks alan...

I bought that tool last night and watched a tonne of videos... the cambelt looks original so I doubt the pulley has been off :-/

Trying to convince my mechanic friend to do it for me.... but he is not to keen... the lazy get...

That bar seems to be ok... I have the top cover off and looks like it will be ok... time will tell

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[Phaeton]

RIght got up early 10am and got my arse to brighton and picked up a couple of stainless piano hinges... £90 but they are perfect

I now need to find some thin rubber to make the hinges waterproof

WTF!!!!

 

[Danny]

I know bright and early

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[250buggys]

Danny, side boxes look really good- just wondering how are you going to secure the lids, will they be lockable?

I have one of those Halfords professional socket sets, mine has lasted over 20 years and the plastic case is starting to fail now at the hinge. It is an arse when all the sockets fall out and you have to spend time putting them all back in order.

 

[Danny]

Danny, side boxes look really good- just wondering how are you going to secure the lids, will they be lockable?

I have one of those Halfords professional socket sets, mine has lasted over 20 years and the plastic case is starting to fail now at the hinge. It is an arse when all the sockets fall out and you have to spend time putting them all back in order.

They have catches going on and the boxes are hinged ;-)

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[250buggys]

They have catches going on and the boxes are hinged ;-)

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I clocked those hinges, they are huge- hope they don't let the water in.

How many cans of beer do you recon you can get in those side boxes?

 

[Danny]

Haha yeah £90 in hinges... I am using an inner tube to help make them waterproof

 

[Danny]

They are big boxes but fit within the wheelbase And they are damn strong

 

[Phaeton]

Look really neat Dan well done, do they open easy enough with such a large lip all around?

 

[Danny]

Look really neat Dan well done, do they open easy enough with such a large lip all around?

Thanks alan

Yes they seem to... I am adjusting that lip a little as it's not straight enough....

Got to get the hinges on catches etc which will be fun for sure

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[Phaeton]

Danny this weeping brake line is copper or braided?

 

[Danny]

They are braided but it's weeping between the copper washers on the banjo

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[esdebe]

They are braided but it's weeping between the copper washers on the banjo

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I assume you used new washers... The copper is very soft and seals it once but they don't like being re used as they deform after first use..

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[Danny]

They are braided but it's weeping between the copper washers on the banjo

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I assume you used new washers... The copper is very soft and seals it once but they don't like being re used as they deform after first use..

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Yup... I made sure this time for sure

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[250buggys]

They are braided but it's weeping between the copper washers on the banjo

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I assume you used new washers... The copper is very soft and seals it once but they don't like being re used as they deform after first use..

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Yup... I made sure this time for sure

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What about some ptfe thread lock tape?

 

[Danny]

I have ordered a new banjo bolt so will try that... its only weeping a little so not the end of the world... the biggest issue I have is getting my fat tyres under my wheel arches....

 

[Phaeton]

Also don't over tighten them when first used

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[Danny]

Doesn't seem to leaking now...

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