Norfolk Freestyle Discussion Thread

rotoryboy

Member
Cheers dude. I will PM you closer to when i am coming up there. Tuesday is cancelled so far but may be up there sometime next week.
 

rotoryboy

Member
Hi Guys

I have been reading how to do my chassis number. I need 17 digits and can freely make one up I believe, Is this correct?

If so does it need to start with anything

F2A02*********6699

Also, what chassis plate is used? Is this OK?

kit%20car.jpg
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
That looks fine, just use 0's in the number, but make sure you also stamp the number into the chassis, I have 2 the one you can see in the cockpit, the other is up under the front that you have to remove several items before seeing, I will remove the items Miss DVLA lady but it will take me about 2 hours to do, but I can honestly say it is there.

Alan...
 

rotoryboy

Member
Phaeton":onqwal4t said:
That looks fine, just use 0's in the number, but make sure you also stamp the number into the chassis, I have 2 the one you can see in the cockpit, the other is up under the front that you have to remove several items before seeing, I will remove the items Miss DVLA lady but it will take me about 2 hours to do, but I can honestly say it is there.

Alan...

Great, just need to buy a decent set of punches then. Any ideas?
 

rotoryboy

Member
Right, sun was out so I have taken a few shots of how it arrived:

IMG_1374.jpg


IMG_1375.jpg


IMG_1376.jpg


IMG_1377.jpg


IMG_1378.jpg


Then I pulled it apart a little to see what I need to do in the future:

IMG_1379.jpg


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IMG_1381.jpg


IMG_1382.jpg


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I have stripped part of it as the engine will be coming out soon and I need to look at the steering column as it doesnt seem to run very straight (like it is too long)
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
It looks like the rack may need turning slightly upwards, which if loose the column will go forward taking the wheel with it, don't do it too much or the steering UJ won't work correctly & the steering will not self-centre.

Alan...
 

rotoryboy

Member
Hmmm interesting. I will have a look at that today. I have also moved the column about 2" to the right as it sits more central. Will need to make and weld s bracket I think


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rotoryboy

Member
Also is there any 'Best' option for wheel sizes for these? As in the photos the fronts are a 12" and the rears 13"

I have read on the original designers details they can run easily up to 15" with 195 x 45 x 15 tyre. Anyone have any photos or experience of this?
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Steering wheel as standard doesn't come out straight, it is sat at an angle, takes a little getting used to but after a short time you forget about it. Have a look at Max's build he's moved it sideways as well.

As for tyres, that's up to you, quite a lot run 175/50x13 which is the standard low profile for Mini's which will give you quick acceleration but noisy & poor fuel consumption on runs. 185/75x13 (I think) give a lot smoother & nicer ride, slightly less acceleration but better long run consumption (these were my choice) or you can go to BMW 15" but they do not fit 'properly' due to the difference in PCD.

Alan...
 

rotoryboy

Member
185 x 75 x 13 sounds good as I want it to be good to drive on long runs and I think acceleration should be fine with the 1.8 VVC lump in it lol. I take it I am looking for 4 x 101.6 pcd




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Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
Ah sorry didn't realise you had decided to go MGF route, in that case, I would buy a whole car, leave the standard alloys on the back with either 195/55x15 or 205/55x15, then get some 25mm thick PCD adaptors from Mini to MG for the front with 195/55x15 on them. Or at least that was/is my route.

Alan....
 

Phaeton

Moderator
Staff member
rotoryboy":3ia1wkpg said:
Any idea on the hub centric adapters as I know you made yours

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It was Steve who made his own, I bought mine from Latvia, think they cost me £75

Alan...
 

rotoryboy

Member
Phaeton":3gd0jegr said:
rotoryboy":3gd0jegr said:
Any idea on the hub centric adapters as I know you made yours

Sent from my Non-GayPhone using Tapatalk

It was Steve who made his own, I bought mine from Latvia, think they cost me £75

Alan...


Is that 4 x 101.6 to 95.25??
 

Steves2580

New member
rotoryboy":1zpvfzuy said:
Phaeton":1zpvfzuy said:
rotoryboy":1zpvfzuy said:
Any idea on the hub centric adapters as I know you made yours

Sent from my Non-GayPhone using Tapatalk

It was Steve who made his own, I bought mine from Latvia, think they cost me £75

Alan...


Is that 4 x 101.6 to 95.25??

Hi there,
Have a look at Mary's Back, my build/MGF conversion.
I'm running 195/45R15's, these are fine, give a very good ride, very fast acceleration but the speedo is slightly out due to going to lower profile than the MGF.
Any questions just fire away!

Steve ;D
 

rotoryboy

Member
Steves2580":3d0859qw said:
Hi there,
Have a look at Mary's Back, my build/MGF conversion.
I'm running 195/45R15's, these are fine, give a very good ride, very fast acceleration but the speedo is slightly out due to going to lower profile than the MGF.
Any questions just fire away!

Steve ;D

It was your thread that gave me inspiration >:D
 

rotoryboy

Member
I am currently trying to work out the measurements from your fuel tank box section and additional roll cage frame


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Steves2580

New member
Are you thinking of using an MGF fuel tank??
I thought you'd only modify the rear end like Alan has done with Mr Bumble!

The frame was totally scratch built, made a shelf like extension, then built on it to suit the fuel tank ;)
To be completely honest, I only used the MGF tank, so I could use the same guages and wiring loom off the MGF, just one big cheat really :D

Steve ;D
 
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