Any Road legal freestyle buggies for sale ?
- Thread starter Leigh1299
- Start date
Leigh1299
Member
250buggys , I see in the photo that you posted , you have braided brake and clutch lines .
If you don’t mind me asking ? Where did you get them and how much did they cost ?
I need to get a new pipe made as one end now needs to be 12mm to suit the yellow tag m/cylinder.
Do you have the lengths that you bought still ?
I might aswell do the whole lot if it’s not an arm and leg cost !!
If you don’t mind me asking ? Where did you get them and how much did they cost ?
I need to get a new pipe made as one end now needs to be 12mm to suit the yellow tag m/cylinder.
Do you have the lengths that you bought still ?
I might aswell do the whole lot if it’s not an arm and leg cost !!
250buggys
Well-known member
I made them myself, there are loads of youtube tutorials on how to fit the flared ends.
I wouldn't do it again, There is too much flex in the PTFE liner and had to fit Metro 4 pot callipers to try and compensate, even with them the braking effort is still poor. Stick to the copper solid lines and invest in a decent flaring tool same as Alan posted yesterday.
They look pretty good though!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-F ... %3A2334524
I wouldn't do it again, There is too much flex in the PTFE liner and had to fit Metro 4 pot callipers to try and compensate, even with them the braking effort is still poor. Stick to the copper solid lines and invest in a decent flaring tool same as Alan posted yesterday.
They look pretty good though!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-F ... %3A2334524
250buggys
Well-known member
I spent a fair bit of time designing the brake circuits, it is all detailed here
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=2617&start=120
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=2617&start=120
Leigh1299
Member
Hi Alan
I’ve sorted reservoir , sorry I should have said !
I’m on with sorting the rear brakes now , as when I went to bleed the circuit the bleed nipples on back wheel cylinders ....1 snapped and the other went round and round !! Lovely
I’ve got 2 new ones and new braided hoses , new metal pipes , brake shoes and the springs !
The only problem I have now Is the new copper pipes have been supplied with short ends and you need long ones to go in the braided pipes . I’m sure things are sent to try us !!
I’ve sorted reservoir , sorry I should have said !
I’m on with sorting the rear brakes now , as when I went to bleed the circuit the bleed nipples on back wheel cylinders ....1 snapped and the other went round and round !! Lovely
I’ve got 2 new ones and new braided hoses , new metal pipes , brake shoes and the springs !
The only problem I have now Is the new copper pipes have been supplied with short ends and you need long ones to go in the braided pipes
. I’m sure things are sent to try us !!
250buggys
Well-known member
Phaeton":2193zhce said:
Alan the Zero has no build manual either unlike Caterham hence there are an awful lot of 7s out there in bad condition. I was watching a car sos where the chassis had been drilled so much and alloy rivets had been used to put the alloy side panels on. The two dis similar metals had rotted the mild steel chassis out in a few years. I have bonded mine on, the Elise chassis is bonded and there must be incredible torsional stresses.
It was good to build the Freestyle as a first IVA project which means that the 7 should turn out nicely
Leigh1299
Member
Hi all ,
It’s been a while !! The suns out and mot time .
I’m pleased to say it passed first time with no issues 8)
The problem now is the overheating ! I’ve got a performance rad , the mg sucky fan , an electric fan on the outside of rad pulling in air to the sucky fan, and the expansion bottle ! But when I got back from mot station I got out and looked at radiator to find water coming out of the top of rad cap ! It’s a 13lb cap , so I’m wondering if
A - I need a higher pressure rad cap
B - is my cap faulty
C - do I need to do the front radiator option ?
The engine is a tuned 1380 cc lump and is very nippy lol .
Does anyone have the details / photos of the front radiator fix ?
Any ideas will be gratefully received
It’s been a while !! The suns out and mot time .
I’m pleased to say it passed first time with no issues 8)
The problem now is the overheating ! I’ve got a performance rad , the mg sucky fan , an electric fan on the outside of rad pulling in air to the sucky fan, and the expansion bottle ! But when I got back from mot station I got out and looked at radiator to find water coming out of the top of rad cap ! It’s a 13lb cap , so I’m wondering if
A - I need a higher pressure rad cap
B - is my cap faulty
C - do I need to do the front radiator option ?
The engine is a tuned 1380 cc lump and is very nippy lol .
Does anyone have the details / photos of the front radiator fix ?
Any ideas will be gratefully received
250buggys
Well-known member
Where is the water coming out of the filler cap, the advice I was given from Justin, passed down from Mr Smart was to add an expansion bottle off the filler cap to collect the water then add back to the system when engine cooled down.
You can see it (left) and the pipe up to the rad cap on the (right)
I have no issues with over heating when ambient temp was 32 degrees, temp gauge never got above 98, what was yours at? I don't have a front rad.
You can see it (left) and the pipe up to the rad cap on the (right)
I have no issues with over heating when ambient temp was 32 degrees, temp gauge never got above 98, what was yours at? I don't have a front rad.
Leigh1299
Member
250 buggy’s
I’ve got the expansion bottle as in your picture , and the electric fan. My water was bubbling out of the centre of the radiator cap .
And running down the rad . The temperature gauge showed 40 but I don’t think it’s working correctly . It’s a smiths electric one , I need to test the sender to see if it’s working correctly !
I’ve got the expansion bottle as in your picture , and the electric fan. My water was bubbling out of the centre of the radiator cap .
And running down the rad . The temperature gauge showed 40 but I don’t think it’s working correctly . It’s a smiths electric one , I need to test the sender to see if it’s working correctly !
Leigh1299
Member
I will look into the items suggested
I have been out and checked rad and it’s the mini spares 2 core performance rad recommended for hot running engines , I’m going to replace the cap with one for an expansion arrangement instead of the spring type that I gave at moment. I will check and renew thermostat as this is least expensive and refill with distilled water and no antifreeze as this is supposed to aid cooling . I’m also going to add the millers cooling additive to the water as this is supposed to reduce water temp by 15 degrees so should help too !
I will post my findings anc thank you for your help 250 buggy
I have been out and checked rad and it’s the mini spares 2 core performance rad recommended for hot running engines , I’m going to replace the cap with one for an expansion arrangement instead of the spring type that I gave at moment. I will check and renew thermostat as this is least expensive and refill with distilled water and no antifreeze as this is supposed to aid cooling . I’m also going to add the millers cooling additive to the water as this is supposed to reduce water temp by 15 degrees so should help too !
I will post my findings anc thank you for your help 250 buggy
Leigh1299
Member
Hi Alan
No heater matrix , no pipe work through manifold . Blank on the heater take off on head .
I had Water coming out of the rad cap in the centre and running down outside of rad . I only noticed this when I got home from a 4 mile journey after the mot whilst it was idling on the drive .
No heater matrix , no pipe work through manifold . Blank on the heater take off on head .
I had Water coming out of the rad cap in the centre and running down outside of rad . I only noticed this when I got home from a 4 mile journey after the mot whilst it was idling on the drive .