VW Buggy

Baloo

Member
wagon_1.0":3rnufhkx said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Xk91N3Mr7DNmNhMWZxMmNVX1U/view?usp=sharing

these diagram might help.

The "later" SAI motor like yours and mine has a load of hose circuits for emissions. The "older" AGU doesnt have these, so I used a hybrid of the two to run mine.

Not saying its the right thing to do (why would VW invest so much doing it) and you will need somebody who's can map to get the "missing component" faults codes om the ecu, but, no limp mode = no problem for me :D

Early

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YRwpQs ... sp=sharing

I assume if you look at the early you would consider ditching the servo and evap, and possibly the crank ventilation.

and the heater hoses too, so loads you can ditch!!


hi Wagon thank you, just what i needed will print them out

have you got any wiring diagrams that show the ecu and engine loom ? or even the whole car it was a year 2001 i think
 

Baloo

Member
rich
is this comms port the same as yours ??

I have been following the wires back and they seem to go to the ecu apart from a twisted orange pair that go up to the clocks

 

Baloo

Member
and I think I was wrong about a switch on the clutch pedal, I found a switch in the loom that I don't recognise and it does fit into a hole in the clutch pedal

 

Baloo

Member
and the ecu looms splits off the main loom with a few plugs, even the fly by wire pedal is on a separate loom that just plugs into the ecu

 

ChaosMS

Active member
Hi Andy, yeah thats the same comms port I have, and the same clutch pedal switch by the looks of it, I have started stripping the unwanted connections out of the loom like the heater controls / lighting / switches / column controls etc but I dont remember the twisted pair from the comms port going up to the clocks, there is a twisted pair on the clocks but that goes from the rfid reader round the ignition barrel i think - I will take a look in the morning, i do remember the immobiliser chip is in the clocks hence the link from the key barrel
 

wagon_1.0

Member
IIRC you need a twisted pair of wires from comms port to ecu, a grey and white one +12v and -ve
IIRC the can going to the dash is for resetting the service light / monitoring other things saved in teh dash unit

those colored plugs are teh important bit.

Dont forget - everything the engine needs to run is a direct wire to and from the ecu, with the exception of ecu power and fuel pump trigger.

all the rest of the wires going to the ecu to dash are senders for the gauges, which you probably won't be able to use unless you keep the clocks, which seems a shame if you have nice yellow gauges :D

you asked for a digaram - which i forgot, let me look.
 

Baloo

Member
wagon_1.0":3cnsfltu said:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Au3M1cHq5l2-nl2_ump3WszOvWv2RAg-?usp=sharing

Basic equipment & AUM diagarms :)

thank you

not made much progress this weekend well not on the buggy any way

but I have been building a buggy track in the back gardenl

if you going to have a jump may as well be a big one



 

Baloo

Member
ChaosMS":62f9jcg6 said:
Were they in a large plastic box and located in the engine bay?

small black plastic cover and yes in engine bay. I am guessing one is the fuel pump supply controlled by the ecu
 

ChaosMS

Active member
the 100 relay is the auxiliary air pump relay (part of the SAI system that I have removed) just trying to find what the other one is

The fuel pump relay is on the relay board that was under the dash (also marked 100 I think)
 

Baloo

Member
ChaosMS":160k7bz4 said:
As for the 4 wheel drive system from the TT I had an idea how to remove the diff ECU and use a small programmable board to read the oil pressure sensor and control the oil pump used to set the drive percentage - in theory it should work, I was then going to drive this board from a screen on the dashboard allowing me to select the drive percentage, I couldnt run the standard control unit as this would screw things up (I thought) so this way I could vary the drive to the front when needed

Like I said early days and this engine is teaching me loads already - but its not as clean and lovely as yours !!



i get a lot of thinking time when i am driving and have been pondering a 4 wheel drive version, how would you arrrange the drive train, or more specifically would you fit the engine in the back and the back diff/haldex unit in the front ? if so how wound you get the rear drive from the grear box to the front axle ??, i know how i would do it as i have worked it out before , i have been looking at golf/passat 4motion vr6's they would make a good drive train for a buggy ?, in its standard layout the rear drive percentage is varied by oil pressure from a pump that is controlled by the ecu ?

if i ran an auto box so i only need one foot to drive and brake could i then use a clutch pedal in place of the hyd pump to pressurise the clutch pack in the rear diff ( which is now the front diff ) so when you wanted more front drive you would simply press the clutch pedal ??
does that make sense ??
 
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